Help with location choices - february trip (1 Viewer)

[nicolas1970i]

I'm planning a trip to Ecuador in february (on my own), I'll have a total of 17 full days.

I'm going there exclusively to watch birds, but I don't consider myself a "serious" birder : I certainly get very excited when I spot rarities, but I take it more as a way of enjoying nature, and as a game - me against those elusive birds |;|

That's why I much prefer birding without a guide, even though I know I'll be potentially missing out on a lot of sightings.

I have to pick a few places to visit during my trip, and decide how long I should stay in each. I'd like to spend as much time birdwatching, and as little as possible traveling (for budget reasons I won't be renting a vehicle). As I said, I'm much more interested in seeing plenty of (possibly spectacular) birds, as opposed to specials and rarities (as an aside, the only other places I've birded in Latin America are Argentina and Honduras). I guess I would probably need to stay longer than usually recommended in any place I pick, because, unguided, it'll take me a little longer to spot all the species which I can reasonably expect to see.
I'll also be taking my camera with me (and a stabilized 300/2.8 lens with 2x converter). The only other trip I took in the same spirit was in Thailand two years ago, where I visited Nam Nao, Doi Angkhang, Si Phang Nga, Kaeng Krachan, ... I really liked the first two, where I spent close to a week in each (I had a month in total back then), which allowed me to walk the trails for 2-3 days just trying to identify the birds, then do it all over again this time focusing on getting some shots. This time I'll have a lot less time, but I'll still bring the camera along.

So I guess what I'm looking for, ideally, would be reserves with an extended, easily accessible network of trails where I can wander around on my own, and which can keep me busy for 2-3 days.
Flying in and out of Quito, I figured I could do a circuit of the eastern and western slopes of the Andes and forego the most remote regions - would that make sense? Or should I still push a bit further, so as to find a completely different variety of birds?
I have this idea that birding in the Amazon would probably not be best suited to my style (from previous experiences I have found birdwatching in lowlands tropical forests quite challenging and often frustrating - isn't most of the action taking place high up in the canopy?), would you agree or am I far off the mark?

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!

Nick

 

[njlarsen]

I think that with limited time you are probably right in keeping the distances and time spent traveling within the country at a minimum (traveling far to different habitats is more important if using local guides, I believe). I would also like to advise you to try to avoid altitude sickness.

As such, even though I have not yet been (August 2015 it will be!) take a look at this thread where I feel I got a lot of good advise. Other threads in this part of birdforum probably is going to be equally beneficial.

Niels

 

[nicolas1970i]

Hi Niels,

Thanks, I will have a look at that thread.
If I don't get any specific suggestions here of places that would particularly suit my way of birdwatching, I will probably look at each of them one by one, for instance on this webiste http://www.birdsinecuador.com/en/ , make a first selection, and come here for the experts to give me their opinion.

 

[Jim M.]

Hi Nick,

If you want to minimize traveling time, you should probably visit the east slope of the Andes, or the west slope, but not both. There are a number of birder-oriented lodges on each slope.

On the east slope, in addition to the San Isidro Lodge, mentioned in the thread Niels linked to, you might also want to look into Wildsumaco Lodge, which is at a lower elevation (and further from Quito) but still in the foothills. Splitting your time between between these two lodges would give you good variety and I think meet most of your requirements. (Though I should add I have not personally stayed at these lodges). I believe the lodges themselves should be able to arrange transportation for you.

On the west slope, the main lodge I am familiar with is Tandayapa Bird Lodge. It has great hummingbird feeders, a bird hide, and a trail system. However, my impression is that the trail system is somewhat limited, so I'm not sure spending more than two or three days there just working the trails would be that exciting. However, there are a lot of daytrip options from the lodge, but I think those usually involve a guide.

Hope this helps.

 

[nicolas1970i]

Thanks Jim,

I've started reading on the different habitats in Ecuador, and I was wondering if visiting different elevations, even within a relatively small area, wouldn't yield better results than traveling great distances from one end of the country to the other, which you seem to confirm in your reply. What I'm thinking is, are bird species very different from one side of the Andes to the other, or is elevation a much bigger factor? If the latter, then obviously it would make much more sense to go up or down one slope only.
In february, would you recommend the eastern or the western one?

Also, what I wrote in the first post was probably a bit confusing : I don't intend to stay a week in a single place - I did that in Thailand because I had a month, and I wanted to have some time exclusively for picture taking - but here I guess after 3 days at most it'll probably make a lot more sense to move to a different location, and spot 50 new (to me) species, then just 5 in the same one.
I'm guesstimating that visiting ~5 locations over those 17 days would be close to ideal, what do you think?

 

[Jim M.]

Nick,

There's roughly a 25% difference in species between the two slopes, at a given elevation. You would get more variety visiting multiple elevations than visiting similar elevations on each slope. If you want to try both slopes, it would probably require an overnight stay in Quito because of travel.

As for staying at five places, I'm not sure there would be five lodges, at least along a convenient route, that would meet all of your requirements. A typical organized tour on the East slope would visit Papallacta pass (unique paramo habitat and high elevation birds but watch out for altitude sickness), and then head down the slope, possibly Guango Lodge, then to the level of San Isidro Lodge, then to Wildsumaco, then to the Amazonian lowlands, e.g. Napo Lodge. (Or they might take an internal flight directly to the lowlands, and then drive back to Quito going up the slope). If you want to do something like this, but do not want to be on a guided tour, you might contact companies such as Tropical Birding (which owns Tandayapa Lodge) or Andean Birding, to see if they can arrange an itinerary, accommodations, and transportation for you. I generally go on organized tours because I do not have the time or inclination to deal with the logistics, so I cannot help you much beyond that.

Most of the places I mention have websites where you can get more information.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[nicolas1970i]

Thanks again - that figure of 25% is very helpful!

I've traveled for two years on my own around Africa - so I'm used to transport nightmares |;|
That said, I have no wish to waste days in buses, so I will have a look at all those reserves and try and devise an itinerary that makes sense.

 

[Maffong]

The above mentioned route for the eastern slope seems quite good, but I'm not sure if birding the Papallacta Pass without knowledge of the region is doable. You don't really have a trail system but rather walk though the field, along streets and sometimes along a very small path. It won't be easy to find your way I think. You should start near Laguna Sucus and go in the direction of Laguna Papallacta.
If you do the western circuit I think something like this would be a good tour:
Bellavista -> Tandayapa -> Mindo -> Milpe -> Rio Silanche

Cheers Maffong

 

[temmie]

From Quito to either the first location on the West slope (Yanacocha) or east slope (Papallacta) is only 1-2 hours. So you don't have to fear for waisting birding time.

On the east slope, a possible itinerary could be:
Papallacta for 2 days (with the Pass area + polyepsis on one day, Thermas + around the village the other day)
Guango for 1 day
San Isidro/Huacamayos for 4 days in total
Wild Sumaco for 3 days
One of the Rio Napo lodges for 5-6 days + flight back from Coca to Quito.

This should really cover most of the birds on the Eastern slope, good for approx. 400-450 possible species in 17 days, and loads of potential highlights, without pushing it too much in terms of pace etc.

For the west slope, see Maffong's post. Other interesting locations are 'un poco del choco' (with recent Banded Ground-cuckoo sightings), mindo loma, Mango loma, Mashpi, and if you fancy some lowland birding, consider Canandé or Playa de Oro.

 

[ebwilderae]

I've not been but am going in January myself to the Yellow House at Mindo. Located between 1200-1700 meters with a stated bird list of over 470 bird species on just under 500 acres with 5 marked trails. http://www.ecuadormindobirds.com/index.html We choose it for a longer stay as the cost is very reasonable as well as the description of whats on offer. Good luck.

 

[ptickner]

I've not been but am going in January myself to the Yellow House at Mindo.

That place looks good Mike, and with very reasonable prices. Please be sure to let us know how you make out. It may be one I'd like to explore one day.

 

[ebwilderae]

Will do

 

[simmojunior]

Hi Nicolas,

Wonderful country, I spent the summer volunteering at San Isidro. Lovely place so really pleased it's been mentioned and I'd definitely recommend it.

I would say getting to Antisana for the day to look for Condor, Andean Ruddy-Duck, Silvery Grebe, Black-faced Ibis, Andean Tit-Spinetail etc... is an absolute must. The Amazonian river lodges are expensive but I doubt there is any better birding anywhere in the world (could be wrong as have many many places still to visit). I spent 3 nights at Sani Lodge and saw 180 species. A lovely lodge and I'd really recommend it, especially if you can get Pablo or Domingo as your guide.

The other place worth a visit is the Jocotoco Foundation reserve on the Loreto Road between San Isidro and Wild Sumaco. I found it effectively by mistake after asking in the Cafe whether there was a good place to walk in the forest in the area and had a superb day, encountering the best mixed flock of the whole trip.

Wonderful country, anything else I can help you with, let me know.

 

[simmojunior]

That place looks good Mike, and with very reasonable prices. Please be sure to let us know how you make out. It may be one I'd like to explore one day.

A lovely Australian couple who visited San Isidro stayed at Yellow House and were very positive about it.

Just avoid using Stephen Hermann as a guide, the Australian couple had booked him for San Isidro, Wild Sumaco and Gareno but ended up asking for my help at San Isidro because he was no good.

 

[Maffong]

I've been to the Yellow House Trails. There are pretty good chances of seeing Spectacled Bears there (I think I heard one breaking through the understory). There were long phases where I didn't see anything but I also saw real goodies. To name just a few: Mountain Coati, Scaled Fruiteater, Wattled and Crested Guans, Olivaceous Woodcreeper(!), Golden-headed Quetzal, 4 toucan species, Blue-fronted Parrotlet, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, several uncommon Tanagers like Gray-and-gold and Bay Tanager. And I didn't even wander all too deep along the trail system

Cheers Maffong

 

[njlarsen]

Olivaceous Woodcreeper(!)

Is this the same species that wasn't too difficult in Costa Rica?

Niels

 

[Maffong]

Could be. It's possibly not very rare elsewhere, but for the ecuadorian western slope it is exceedingly rare! Therefore I mentioned it, to show the possibilities the Yellow House Trails have.

Cheers Maffong

 

[njlarsen]

Thanks

Niels

 

[pprioverde]

Hi Nick.
Can I plug my own place here? We have a small hostel on the east slope, we do not get a lot of people here so I spend a lot of time myself filming the birds and other creatures here in our garden.
I'm hoping one day to just create videos full time and close the hostel. However till then there is always time for birders.

My latest video (Blue-necked Tanager): http://youtu.be/UX8s_BbAFao
and one I am working on, (Violet-fronted Brilliant) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8azYcugC4gA
and my favourite the Inca Jay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8azYcugC4gA

 

[nikothomsen]

This thread is very informative! Planning my own birding/backpacking trip to Ecuador in February and March and before reading this post i reached more or less the same conclusions: Mindo for Western Slope and San Isidro for Eastern. San isidro seems to be the cheapest of the eastern slope and amazon lodges, and plenty of budget options in Mindo.