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Costa Rica, August-September 2009. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jos Stratford
- Start date
La Selva
Day Two.
Day one at La Selva had been amazing, the overnight rain that thundered down pretty amazing too, but peeping out of the cabin at dawn, it was clear skies again, another excellent day in the offing. Already the Black-cheeked Woodpeckers were up on their tree, I cursed myself for a 'late' start - the sun was already peeping up!
Today I had opted for the guided walk, not entirly sure if I really wanted it or not. Either way, it would begin after breakfast, so with an hour to kill, I took the longer route to the canteen this day, skirting the edge of the forest and coming down the main entrance track - slightly more open habitat, secondary growths and many big trees with exposed branches ...the said favoured habitat of the legendary Snowy Cotinga. And of course I did not see it, but plenty of other perchers up high - taking in the morning sun, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, both Pale-vented and Short-billed Pigeons, plus psittacidae of various shapes and sizes - clinched Olive-throated and Orange-chinned Parakeets, had White-crowned Parrots zooming over. Most impressive, however, was a mega tanager flock - right on the forest edge, in and out of a solitary tree, in amongst perhaps 30 Passerini's Tanagers, several Palm Tanagers, one Blue-Grey Tanager and, the stars, first two Dusky-faced Tanagers, then a stunning Crimson-collared Tanager. Also Green Honeycreepers, Bananaquit and plenty more. I was seriously in danger of being late for breakfast - even more so when I encountered a bunch of birds in the area right adjacent to the canteen. Mixed North American migrants and residents, Red-eyed Vireos headed the pack, at least four present, backed up by an American Redstart, three Lesser Greenlets and, a right stonker of a bird, one Barred Antshrike. More birds moving through, a chunky Black-headed Saltator, one Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, plus a Band-backed Wren, the first of four wren species during the day. Violaceous Trogon perched up above.
Into breakfast I went, best meal of the day at La Selva. Our guide appeared, seemed a good guy. And he was, a damn good birder, knowing the calls and pretty top-notch all over. A few quick hellos, he sounded us out for what we wanted, any target birds and then he suggested a route, avoiding the area we had explored the day before. A Long-tailed Tyrant did little sallies from a twig nearby, another seriously good-looking bird!
So began the walk, over the river. A pause, a flock moving through riverside vegetation. One Squirrel Cuckoo, various tanagers. 'Pssst, what's this bird?' asks my friend only to be ignored by me, busy watching something else. 'Psst, there's a bird here' is uttered again. I look over the rail of the bridge and go almost face-to-face with a Fasciated Antshrike, what a cracking bird, and only a couple of metres away at eye-level! Finally get over the bridge, passing the Anhinga on a log, greet a few early morning Howler Monkeys growling their way into the new day, then scan the tops around the research centre - Keel-billed Toucan and Masked Titra on show, four Golden-hooded Tanagers too. Around our feet, Collared Peccaries wandering, a nervous Agouti scuttling past.
Our walk was to take us east along the Sendero Oriental trail, then up Camino Circular Cercano. Had gone not very far when we crossed a little marsh, a boardwalk leading across. A whizz of legs, something running like crazy, straight under the boardwalk and gone from sight, so was my only view of a Grey-necked Wood-Rail! Peered under the boardwalk, squinted into reedy bits nearby, the thing had vanished, drat.
Guide was doing his stuff, knew his trees too and soon spotted the first good amphibian of the day - a Strawberry Dart-poison Frog. Not exactly difficult t spot it has to be said, almost flourescent, a bright scarlet red, offset with deep blue legs, this midget of a frog was the number one amphibian on my 'most-wanted' list. Barely 20 mm in length, the skins contain poisons said to be enough to kill a man, I did not try. Off it hopped, on we went,
Next a clearing, a tree had fallen, the view was fine - birds, birds, birds! More Masked Tityras, one Cinnamon Becard, a flock of about eight Black-faced Grosbeaks. Hummingbirds were zipping about - got onto a Purple-crowned Fairy, also a Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and Violet-crowned Woodnypmh also seen in this general area. A flock was moving through - amongst the many Northern Barred Woodcreepers, added a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, and later a Streak-headed Woodcreeper too, along with many other goodies. One Broad-billed Motmot, the first Rufous-tailed Jacama of the day, then a female Western Antshrike. Walked on a while, added another Western Antshrike, again female, then a Black-cowled Oriole, then another Western Antshrike, a male this time. The morning was beginning to roll on, we climbed one path, seeing not a lot, when suddenly the guide stopped and started making the most weird noises. Slightly demented some might have thought, especially when he suddenly went hopping off into the forest, me in close persuit, though not with the slightest idea what he had seen! More weird noises from the guide, then a response - the same weird noises resounding back. Off he went again, down the slope, then stop. 'Up there', he said. Movements, we were hot on the trail of something, though I still had no clue as to what! And then I got a glimpse, a dark bird in the canopy, then a better look - a Purple-throated Fruit Crow, not such an easy bird to locate! Another ten minutes peering up, creeping from spot to spot, then an absolutely classic view - a smart male with irredescent purple throat catching the light, very nice. The flock was moving fast, but at least four birds present, also several Chestnut-headed Oropendolas with them.
Returned to the path to find my friend loking rather bemused - hardly surprising, the two idiots that had been previously been moving at a sedate pace had suddenly exited into the forest as if the Bullet Ants had got us! Another Chestnut-mandibled Toucan sat quietly, so too a Black-headed Trogon and, someway further, a real stunning male Red-capped Manakin. During the walk, I had already seen three Red-capped Manakins, as well as six White-collared Manakins, but this one was sitting just adjacent - the red on its head almost glowing in the gloom of the dark understory! Butterfiles flopped past, a Bay Wren appeared, plus White-bellied Wood-Wrens, but for us, it was time to head back - luchtime was approaching, a pretty good morning it had been.
Back at the river, the Fasciated Antshrike was still there! And one very big Green Igwana. Also a Long-billed Hermit. A restful lunch followed, skyward gazes adding an Osprey, as well as both Cliff Swallows and Grey-rumped Swifts. A House Wren nosed nearby, Violet-headed Hummingbirds attended the flowers.
Lunch over, it was time to head into the field again, a tough life being on holiday! The afternoon loop was a rather more lazy affair - spent a whle watching the Howler Monkeys, saw some Spider Monkeys as well, then wandered round the research area clearing. Eight Scarlet-rumped Caciques fed in small bushes, one Yellow-crowned Euphonia popped in and a flock of Swallow-tailed Kites drifted overhead, all very nice additions to the day. As afternoon crept towards evening, I took one final stroll - a path to a strangely cleared area, I suppose a research project, a half hectar or so of forest with no undergrowth. Dead easy to see birds, but the problem being there were no birds to see! Or almost none, four splendid Crested Guans wandered through, a Green Kingfisher shot along a neighbouring stream and, all rather noisy, a fast moving flock of birds hgh in the canopy turned out to be Purple-throated Fruitcrows again, at least eight this time, but views were brief.
Calling it a day, adding Long-billed Starthroat and Slaty-tailed Trogon before returning, I did have ideas of returning to the cabin before it got dark. Got half way and came to an abrupt halt - on the track a very approachable Green Ibis, many photographs followed.
Finally got to the cabin, now getting dark. Grabbed the torch, head off to dinner, Common Pauraques again on the tracks. Day Two at La Selva over!
Day Two.
Day one at La Selva had been amazing, the overnight rain that thundered down pretty amazing too, but peeping out of the cabin at dawn, it was clear skies again, another excellent day in the offing. Already the Black-cheeked Woodpeckers were up on their tree, I cursed myself for a 'late' start - the sun was already peeping up!
Today I had opted for the guided walk, not entirly sure if I really wanted it or not. Either way, it would begin after breakfast, so with an hour to kill, I took the longer route to the canteen this day, skirting the edge of the forest and coming down the main entrance track - slightly more open habitat, secondary growths and many big trees with exposed branches ...the said favoured habitat of the legendary Snowy Cotinga. And of course I did not see it, but plenty of other perchers up high - taking in the morning sun, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, both Pale-vented and Short-billed Pigeons, plus psittacidae of various shapes and sizes - clinched Olive-throated and Orange-chinned Parakeets, had White-crowned Parrots zooming over. Most impressive, however, was a mega tanager flock - right on the forest edge, in and out of a solitary tree, in amongst perhaps 30 Passerini's Tanagers, several Palm Tanagers, one Blue-Grey Tanager and, the stars, first two Dusky-faced Tanagers, then a stunning Crimson-collared Tanager. Also Green Honeycreepers, Bananaquit and plenty more. I was seriously in danger of being late for breakfast - even more so when I encountered a bunch of birds in the area right adjacent to the canteen. Mixed North American migrants and residents, Red-eyed Vireos headed the pack, at least four present, backed up by an American Redstart, three Lesser Greenlets and, a right stonker of a bird, one Barred Antshrike. More birds moving through, a chunky Black-headed Saltator, one Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, plus a Band-backed Wren, the first of four wren species during the day. Violaceous Trogon perched up above.
Into breakfast I went, best meal of the day at La Selva. Our guide appeared, seemed a good guy. And he was, a damn good birder, knowing the calls and pretty top-notch all over. A few quick hellos, he sounded us out for what we wanted, any target birds and then he suggested a route, avoiding the area we had explored the day before. A Long-tailed Tyrant did little sallies from a twig nearby, another seriously good-looking bird!
So began the walk, over the river. A pause, a flock moving through riverside vegetation. One Squirrel Cuckoo, various tanagers. 'Pssst, what's this bird?' asks my friend only to be ignored by me, busy watching something else. 'Psst, there's a bird here' is uttered again. I look over the rail of the bridge and go almost face-to-face with a Fasciated Antshrike, what a cracking bird, and only a couple of metres away at eye-level! Finally get over the bridge, passing the Anhinga on a log, greet a few early morning Howler Monkeys growling their way into the new day, then scan the tops around the research centre - Keel-billed Toucan and Masked Titra on show, four Golden-hooded Tanagers too. Around our feet, Collared Peccaries wandering, a nervous Agouti scuttling past.
Our walk was to take us east along the Sendero Oriental trail, then up Camino Circular Cercano. Had gone not very far when we crossed a little marsh, a boardwalk leading across. A whizz of legs, something running like crazy, straight under the boardwalk and gone from sight, so was my only view of a Grey-necked Wood-Rail! Peered under the boardwalk, squinted into reedy bits nearby, the thing had vanished, drat.
Guide was doing his stuff, knew his trees too and soon spotted the first good amphibian of the day - a Strawberry Dart-poison Frog. Not exactly difficult t spot it has to be said, almost flourescent, a bright scarlet red, offset with deep blue legs, this midget of a frog was the number one amphibian on my 'most-wanted' list. Barely 20 mm in length, the skins contain poisons said to be enough to kill a man, I did not try. Off it hopped, on we went,
Next a clearing, a tree had fallen, the view was fine - birds, birds, birds! More Masked Tityras, one Cinnamon Becard, a flock of about eight Black-faced Grosbeaks. Hummingbirds were zipping about - got onto a Purple-crowned Fairy, also a Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and Violet-crowned Woodnypmh also seen in this general area. A flock was moving through - amongst the many Northern Barred Woodcreepers, added a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, and later a Streak-headed Woodcreeper too, along with many other goodies. One Broad-billed Motmot, the first Rufous-tailed Jacama of the day, then a female Western Antshrike. Walked on a while, added another Western Antshrike, again female, then a Black-cowled Oriole, then another Western Antshrike, a male this time. The morning was beginning to roll on, we climbed one path, seeing not a lot, when suddenly the guide stopped and started making the most weird noises. Slightly demented some might have thought, especially when he suddenly went hopping off into the forest, me in close persuit, though not with the slightest idea what he had seen! More weird noises from the guide, then a response - the same weird noises resounding back. Off he went again, down the slope, then stop. 'Up there', he said. Movements, we were hot on the trail of something, though I still had no clue as to what! And then I got a glimpse, a dark bird in the canopy, then a better look - a Purple-throated Fruit Crow, not such an easy bird to locate! Another ten minutes peering up, creeping from spot to spot, then an absolutely classic view - a smart male with irredescent purple throat catching the light, very nice. The flock was moving fast, but at least four birds present, also several Chestnut-headed Oropendolas with them.
Returned to the path to find my friend loking rather bemused - hardly surprising, the two idiots that had been previously been moving at a sedate pace had suddenly exited into the forest as if the Bullet Ants had got us! Another Chestnut-mandibled Toucan sat quietly, so too a Black-headed Trogon and, someway further, a real stunning male Red-capped Manakin. During the walk, I had already seen three Red-capped Manakins, as well as six White-collared Manakins, but this one was sitting just adjacent - the red on its head almost glowing in the gloom of the dark understory! Butterfiles flopped past, a Bay Wren appeared, plus White-bellied Wood-Wrens, but for us, it was time to head back - luchtime was approaching, a pretty good morning it had been.
Back at the river, the Fasciated Antshrike was still there! And one very big Green Igwana. Also a Long-billed Hermit. A restful lunch followed, skyward gazes adding an Osprey, as well as both Cliff Swallows and Grey-rumped Swifts. A House Wren nosed nearby, Violet-headed Hummingbirds attended the flowers.
Lunch over, it was time to head into the field again, a tough life being on holiday! The afternoon loop was a rather more lazy affair - spent a whle watching the Howler Monkeys, saw some Spider Monkeys as well, then wandered round the research area clearing. Eight Scarlet-rumped Caciques fed in small bushes, one Yellow-crowned Euphonia popped in and a flock of Swallow-tailed Kites drifted overhead, all very nice additions to the day. As afternoon crept towards evening, I took one final stroll - a path to a strangely cleared area, I suppose a research project, a half hectar or so of forest with no undergrowth. Dead easy to see birds, but the problem being there were no birds to see! Or almost none, four splendid Crested Guans wandered through, a Green Kingfisher shot along a neighbouring stream and, all rather noisy, a fast moving flock of birds hgh in the canopy turned out to be Purple-throated Fruitcrows again, at least eight this time, but views were brief.
Calling it a day, adding Long-billed Starthroat and Slaty-tailed Trogon before returning, I did have ideas of returning to the cabin before it got dark. Got half way and came to an abrupt halt - on the track a very approachable Green Ibis, many photographs followed.
Finally got to the cabin, now getting dark. Grabbed the torch, head off to dinner, Common Pauraques again on the tracks. Day Two at La Selva over!
Hamhed
Well-known member
Well-written report, Jos! My wife and I will be in CR in 6 weeks, staying two nights at La Georgina; your descriptions of that place were very helpful. Any more pictures, even scenery, from that area would be appreciated. Did you take a photo of the restaurant itself? Very much looking forward to the rest of your trip report.
Steve
Steve
Birdingcraft
Well-known member
Nice to read that you saw fruitcrows at La Selva- they have become far less common there.
Jon Turner
Well-known member
Jos, it's an exciting read (as usual from you) May well try to head over that way in February. Which field guide is best - we may also (or alternatively) head for Panama so a book which does justice to both is what I'm after - it's my birthday 'dreckly' so I'm able to get it now and start revising!
Jon
Jon
Not of the restaurant, but took this one inside the restaurant!
Attachments
For the first part of my trip I only took the new 'Birds of Costa Rica' by Garrigues and Dean. Once my friend arrived, they also brought the older guide 'Birds of Costa Rica' by Stiles and Skutch, which I still had from my trip many years earlier - it is still okay, but built like a brick.
In the field, I almost entirely used the Garrigues guide, I think it is basically very good.
Jon Turner
Well-known member
Thanks for that Jos, I've seen a copy of 'the brick' and may have to get it, but I like the idea of a lightweight guide for everyday use!
Keep up the writing!
Jon
Birdingcraft
Well-known member
For a field guide, I like Garrigues and Dean. It's much better for the field not just in terms of weight but also because the illustrations are more accurate and because it has range maps. Stiles and Skutch is still very good, especially for written information, but is better for reference back at the hotel or at home. Most of the local guides seem to prefer Stiles and Skutch for the field although that might be because they don't need to buy the new book.
Jon Turner
Well-known member
Thanks for the confirmation Patrick. Will let you know what happens in due course.
Jon
La Selva
Day Three.
Now a veteran of the forest, up at dawn I was, challenge today to walk the longest of the trails, hacking right out along the remote Sendero Holdridge trail and hopefully mopping up on a few specials still eluding me, plus hopefully getting to photograph some poison-dart Frogs, or at least find some more!
All started well enough, on the trek from accommodation to breakfast, amongst the assorted tangers, flycatchers and bits and bobs, a pair of low skulkers turned out to be one of the forest's specials - subtle, but stunning Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, a bird not always easy to pick up. Dusky-faced Tanager also nearby, plus the only Great Currasow of the day.
Then, breakfast downed, it was time for the forest slog. My chosen path initially took me back along the Sendero Oriental, toucan triple crown - Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Keel-billed Toucan, Collared Aracari - followed by assorted oropendolas, both Black-crowned and Masked Tityra and a mixed flock headed by Blue Dacnis. Cloud drifted over, the first morning of the trip without unbroken sun, but it remained high - not a single patter of the nasty stuff. Birding continued, a Yellow-bellied Elaenia was new for the trip, a male Fasciated Antshrike dazzled, then my eye caught a dash of scarlet. Another 22 mm of frog delight, one more Strawberry Poison-Dart Frog. So followed fifteen minutes of me crawling through the undergrowth on my belly trying to get photographs of the little belter, whilst also keeping a beady eye on roving Bullet Ants. Result, not half bad shots, plus my last tea-shirt now sporting authentic camo stripes.
No less than five Western Slaty-Antshrikes followed in the next section, then with laziness creeping in, I detoured onto the 'Sendero Suampo', a shortcut that would take me into the heart of the forest. Any guesses as to the meaning of 'Suampo'? It did not take me long to confirm my suspicions - the trail went straight through a strangely-birdless bog, rickety rotten bridges crossing streams with paths that sloshed as foot vanished into gunk. Saw amost nothing, bar another two Strawberry Poison-Dart Frog, and was just beginning to regret my choice of route when I stopped at a stream only to spot a Rufous Motmot sitting quiety in dense growths adjacent. Super, I'd heard one the day before in a riverside tree, but I'd searched high and low in a friutless attempt to see it. A nice bird.
On I trudged, four Crested Guans appeared, then a real stunner - not a bird, but taking the award for 'critter of the day', another poison-dart frog, but not a red one. Slightly larger, perhaps 28 mm in length and splodges of bright lime and black, here was a splendid Green-and-Black Poison-Dart Frog, whoopie! Back into crawl mode, through sludge and slime, spent an easy twenty minutes with this star. Eventually, with dozens of pictures under the belt, on I went. Lunch calling.
Three Great Tinamou and roving Peccaries marked the end of my morning stroll, lunch was fine, then it was time for departure from La Selva, three days of excellent birding behind me, a first-rate ocation without doubt.
Had ideas of gate-crashing Selva Verde for possible Sun Grebe, but thought better of it, so instead drove westward. With the January earthquake having destroyed the roads down to Cinchona, I opted for a northern route, the idea being to get to Volcano Arenal for dark to savour the red lavas flowing down the slopes, illuminating the night skies. Got there in plenty of time, both Broad-winged Hawk and Crested Caracara noted on the outskirts of arenal town, along with Red-winged Blackbirds and Groove-billed Ani. Checked into a small hotel, a bargain at $7 for two persons, then had a saunter through town, gazing up at the perfect cone of the volcano on the skyline. Dark approaching, went into the local equivalent of McD's ...oops, mistake, one burger after, out we came ready for our lava spectacle. Cloud obscured all, we dipped the volcano!!!
Day Three.
Now a veteran of the forest, up at dawn I was, challenge today to walk the longest of the trails, hacking right out along the remote Sendero Holdridge trail and hopefully mopping up on a few specials still eluding me, plus hopefully getting to photograph some poison-dart Frogs, or at least find some more!
All started well enough, on the trek from accommodation to breakfast, amongst the assorted tangers, flycatchers and bits and bobs, a pair of low skulkers turned out to be one of the forest's specials - subtle, but stunning Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, a bird not always easy to pick up. Dusky-faced Tanager also nearby, plus the only Great Currasow of the day.
Then, breakfast downed, it was time for the forest slog. My chosen path initially took me back along the Sendero Oriental, toucan triple crown - Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Keel-billed Toucan, Collared Aracari - followed by assorted oropendolas, both Black-crowned and Masked Tityra and a mixed flock headed by Blue Dacnis. Cloud drifted over, the first morning of the trip without unbroken sun, but it remained high - not a single patter of the nasty stuff. Birding continued, a Yellow-bellied Elaenia was new for the trip, a male Fasciated Antshrike dazzled, then my eye caught a dash of scarlet. Another 22 mm of frog delight, one more Strawberry Poison-Dart Frog. So followed fifteen minutes of me crawling through the undergrowth on my belly trying to get photographs of the little belter, whilst also keeping a beady eye on roving Bullet Ants. Result, not half bad shots, plus my last tea-shirt now sporting authentic camo stripes.
No less than five Western Slaty-Antshrikes followed in the next section, then with laziness creeping in, I detoured onto the 'Sendero Suampo', a shortcut that would take me into the heart of the forest. Any guesses as to the meaning of 'Suampo'? It did not take me long to confirm my suspicions - the trail went straight through a strangely-birdless bog, rickety rotten bridges crossing streams with paths that sloshed as foot vanished into gunk. Saw amost nothing, bar another two Strawberry Poison-Dart Frog, and was just beginning to regret my choice of route when I stopped at a stream only to spot a Rufous Motmot sitting quiety in dense growths adjacent. Super, I'd heard one the day before in a riverside tree, but I'd searched high and low in a friutless attempt to see it. A nice bird.
On I trudged, four Crested Guans appeared, then a real stunner - not a bird, but taking the award for 'critter of the day', another poison-dart frog, but not a red one. Slightly larger, perhaps 28 mm in length and splodges of bright lime and black, here was a splendid Green-and-Black Poison-Dart Frog, whoopie! Back into crawl mode, through sludge and slime, spent an easy twenty minutes with this star. Eventually, with dozens of pictures under the belt, on I went. Lunch calling.
Three Great Tinamou and roving Peccaries marked the end of my morning stroll, lunch was fine, then it was time for departure from La Selva, three days of excellent birding behind me, a first-rate ocation without doubt.
Had ideas of gate-crashing Selva Verde for possible Sun Grebe, but thought better of it, so instead drove westward. With the January earthquake having destroyed the roads down to Cinchona, I opted for a northern route, the idea being to get to Volcano Arenal for dark to savour the red lavas flowing down the slopes, illuminating the night skies. Got there in plenty of time, both Broad-winged Hawk and Crested Caracara noted on the outskirts of arenal town, along with Red-winged Blackbirds and Groove-billed Ani. Checked into a small hotel, a bargain at $7 for two persons, then had a saunter through town, gazing up at the perfect cone of the volcano on the skyline. Dark approaching, went into the local equivalent of McD's ...oops, mistake, one burger after, out we came ready for our lava spectacle. Cloud obscured all, we dipped the volcano!!!
5 September. Palo Verde.
4.00 a.m., Arenal town. Suggesting we might get to see that red lava, up we got and piled out of the hotel. Actually I didn't give a fig about molten rocks, but certainly made for a good excuse to be on the road so early and, by strange coincidence, allowing us just about enough time to get to the legendary wetlands of Palo Verde not long after dawn.
So swept out of Arenal town, did a sideways glance at the volcano to confirm it was indeed still shrouded in mist, then began the voyage westward. Common Pauraques on the road in the darkness, but the star of the journey, just as dawn was breaking on the hills above Palo Verde, a flock of White-throated Magpie-Jays, a stunning member of the tribe, bright colours, long tail and a mean quiff atop their heads!
Sun was just up, we left the Pan-American Highway, along the long gravel road to Palo Verde we began to bump. Pigeon heaven, assorted doves were scattering every which way, Plain-breasted Ground Doves by the dozen, Inca Doves and White-tipped Doves nearly as abundant. Also White-winged Doves and a Red-billed Pigeon too. They all became a bit of a blur after a while, but the Plain-breasted Ground Doves must have numbered an absolute minimum of 60 during those dusty kilometres. Adding distraction, numerous parrot types as well - Orange-fronted Parakeets most common, White-fronted Parrot and Yellow-naped Parrot in lesser numbers.
All was not rosy however - complaints were beginning to emanate from the passenger seat. Despite having a thermos of coffee, we had yet to stop to sample it. ‘Spot something worth stopping for, we stop’ suggested I. Two seconds later, a shout of ‘STOP’, there sat two Roadside Hawks in dead trees adjacent! Hmm, nice birds, I promised a coffee break soon. On we travelled, a Crested Caracara soared overhead, small birds included Rufous-naped Wrens and Stripe-headed Sparrows. Various more stops to sort out pesky flycatchers - Western Wood-Pewee, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Brown-crested Flycatcher. ‘Grumble, grumble, when’s the coffee stop?’
Rounded a corner and there it was, the perfect coffee stop. Aside the road, an irrigated field, semi-submerged and literally crawling with birds, a genuinely impressive sight. Coffee slurped all around, I admired the view. Hundreds of herons and waders. Did a few counts - over 250 Great White Egrets, a minimum of 60 Snowy Egrets, 70 or so Cattle Egrets, plus 15 Little Blue Herons, a few Green Herons and one solitary Tricoloured Heron. In amongst that leggy soup, six stately Wood Storks plodding and a buzz of waders including some dozens of Lesser Yellowlegs and Black-necked Stilt. All in all, a most pleasant place for an impromptu breakfast. Then it switched to horror movie mode, peace shattered, a Harris’s Hawk zoomed in and grabbed a Green Heron. The waders scattered, other birds barely blinked.
Coffee over, onward we ventured. Paid the entrance fees to Palo Verde National Park, motored on, next stop the vast marshes that are the heart of this fantastic wetland. Home to Jabiru and much more, this had been one of the highlights of my trip to Costa Rica many years earlier. I climbed a rickety watch tower and looked around, still the same amazing place - throngs of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, hundreds of Northern Jacanas, the marsh was alive. Dozens of American Purple Gallinules, Green Herons dotted about, a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron in a tree. Shifting position, a wander along a raised platform offered more views - jacanas with babies, three stonking Limpkin, but over and above them a reptile most impressive. Basking in the sunshine, an iguana of massive proportion, the beady eye of a Black Ctenosauras glared at me. Clearly the boss of this here walkway, he was one mean beastie, looked quite capable munching children and stray dogs. In no hurry to give way, I edged around and left him be, my arms intact. Another lesser specimen lurked beyond, a little critter though, barely three-quarter of a metre.
Safely back on dry land, the non-bird action continued apace - a Variegated Squirrel in a tree, a White-nosed Coati waltzing nonchalantly past, a lone male sniffing around. Two hundred metres further, on the lawns of the reserve station, it was White-nosed Coati party time, a troop of about 40 were having a right royal time, busting open palm nuts and scooping out the tasty interiors. This spectacle was perhaps moment of the day, I edged in and sat amongst them, these engaging creatures all around - the younger members playing, older females watching over me, one stubborn individual refusing to budge until every last scrap of palm nut was finished. Stayed with these for a good half hour, many a photograph taken. Truly liked that, but tore myself away to continue onward. More Black Ctenosauras slumped across the trail, brutes as the first. Then back to birds - Black-headed Trogons, male and female, sat in a tree above, whilst adjacent an active flock of warblers came roving through - almost purely Yellow Warblers, a good twenty of them, but also one Red-eyed Vireo and perhaps three White-lored Gnatcatchers with them.
By now it was time for coffee number two, stopped under some trees, a few Green Iguanas sunned on branches, a Streak-backed Oriole appeared. Another wander added yet more Coatis, a group of about 20 this time, but by now the heat was really building, soaring up towards 30 C and beyond. Returned to the shade of the lawns and lazed for an hour or so, then began the afternoon wanders. Bits and bobs here and there, a Rufous-and-White Wren in woodland, two Great Black Hawk elsewhere, a Lesser Ground Squirrel in a swampy area of bush land. I however still had a number of specialities yet to see, plus a desire to see a Jabiru, which despite long scans across the marsh had yet to materialise. First, a long stomp through the dry tropical forestlands - plenty of goodies in here, but soon began to bump into the birds I sought. First up was a pair of Common Pauraques roosting on the ground, then a stunning Turquoise-browed Motmot and almost simultaneously a male Elegant Trogon. Continued up the path, a long birdless spell followed, but the punctuation was dramatic - a fabulous Laughing Falcon perched in a tree. Soon added two Long-tailed Manakins, then decided it was time to return to the marsh to wait out the rest of the day. With only a couple of hours till dark, my hope was that a Jabiru would fly in to roost. And wait I did, two hours till the light had faded to darkness. Did I see a Jabiru? Nope. But a good couple of hours nonetheless - Jacanas and Purple Gallinules hurtling about, four Muscovy Ducks, a passage of hirundines heading to roost, mostly Barn Swallows, but also Grey-breasted Martins and Sand Martins.
It was now dark, decision time, stay overnight or head on. I opted to leave, in hindsight I wish I had given this locality another day, but the journey out was good two - 18 Common Pauraque on the tracks, two Lesser Nighthawks, plus a assortment of mammals - one Eastern Cottontail, one White-tailed Deer and, odd little things, three Common Grey Four-eyed Opossum. Couldn’t find a hotel locally, ended up driving all the way to Monteverde. An impressive drive, the infamous tracks a interesting challenge in the dark!
4.00 a.m., Arenal town. Suggesting we might get to see that red lava, up we got and piled out of the hotel. Actually I didn't give a fig about molten rocks, but certainly made for a good excuse to be on the road so early and, by strange coincidence, allowing us just about enough time to get to the legendary wetlands of Palo Verde not long after dawn.
So swept out of Arenal town, did a sideways glance at the volcano to confirm it was indeed still shrouded in mist, then began the voyage westward. Common Pauraques on the road in the darkness, but the star of the journey, just as dawn was breaking on the hills above Palo Verde, a flock of White-throated Magpie-Jays, a stunning member of the tribe, bright colours, long tail and a mean quiff atop their heads!
Sun was just up, we left the Pan-American Highway, along the long gravel road to Palo Verde we began to bump. Pigeon heaven, assorted doves were scattering every which way, Plain-breasted Ground Doves by the dozen, Inca Doves and White-tipped Doves nearly as abundant. Also White-winged Doves and a Red-billed Pigeon too. They all became a bit of a blur after a while, but the Plain-breasted Ground Doves must have numbered an absolute minimum of 60 during those dusty kilometres. Adding distraction, numerous parrot types as well - Orange-fronted Parakeets most common, White-fronted Parrot and Yellow-naped Parrot in lesser numbers.
All was not rosy however - complaints were beginning to emanate from the passenger seat. Despite having a thermos of coffee, we had yet to stop to sample it. ‘Spot something worth stopping for, we stop’ suggested I. Two seconds later, a shout of ‘STOP’, there sat two Roadside Hawks in dead trees adjacent! Hmm, nice birds, I promised a coffee break soon. On we travelled, a Crested Caracara soared overhead, small birds included Rufous-naped Wrens and Stripe-headed Sparrows. Various more stops to sort out pesky flycatchers - Western Wood-Pewee, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Brown-crested Flycatcher. ‘Grumble, grumble, when’s the coffee stop?’
Rounded a corner and there it was, the perfect coffee stop. Aside the road, an irrigated field, semi-submerged and literally crawling with birds, a genuinely impressive sight. Coffee slurped all around, I admired the view. Hundreds of herons and waders. Did a few counts - over 250 Great White Egrets, a minimum of 60 Snowy Egrets, 70 or so Cattle Egrets, plus 15 Little Blue Herons, a few Green Herons and one solitary Tricoloured Heron. In amongst that leggy soup, six stately Wood Storks plodding and a buzz of waders including some dozens of Lesser Yellowlegs and Black-necked Stilt. All in all, a most pleasant place for an impromptu breakfast. Then it switched to horror movie mode, peace shattered, a Harris’s Hawk zoomed in and grabbed a Green Heron. The waders scattered, other birds barely blinked.
Coffee over, onward we ventured. Paid the entrance fees to Palo Verde National Park, motored on, next stop the vast marshes that are the heart of this fantastic wetland. Home to Jabiru and much more, this had been one of the highlights of my trip to Costa Rica many years earlier. I climbed a rickety watch tower and looked around, still the same amazing place - throngs of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, hundreds of Northern Jacanas, the marsh was alive. Dozens of American Purple Gallinules, Green Herons dotted about, a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron in a tree. Shifting position, a wander along a raised platform offered more views - jacanas with babies, three stonking Limpkin, but over and above them a reptile most impressive. Basking in the sunshine, an iguana of massive proportion, the beady eye of a Black Ctenosauras glared at me. Clearly the boss of this here walkway, he was one mean beastie, looked quite capable munching children and stray dogs. In no hurry to give way, I edged around and left him be, my arms intact. Another lesser specimen lurked beyond, a little critter though, barely three-quarter of a metre.
Safely back on dry land, the non-bird action continued apace - a Variegated Squirrel in a tree, a White-nosed Coati waltzing nonchalantly past, a lone male sniffing around. Two hundred metres further, on the lawns of the reserve station, it was White-nosed Coati party time, a troop of about 40 were having a right royal time, busting open palm nuts and scooping out the tasty interiors. This spectacle was perhaps moment of the day, I edged in and sat amongst them, these engaging creatures all around - the younger members playing, older females watching over me, one stubborn individual refusing to budge until every last scrap of palm nut was finished. Stayed with these for a good half hour, many a photograph taken. Truly liked that, but tore myself away to continue onward. More Black Ctenosauras slumped across the trail, brutes as the first. Then back to birds - Black-headed Trogons, male and female, sat in a tree above, whilst adjacent an active flock of warblers came roving through - almost purely Yellow Warblers, a good twenty of them, but also one Red-eyed Vireo and perhaps three White-lored Gnatcatchers with them.
By now it was time for coffee number two, stopped under some trees, a few Green Iguanas sunned on branches, a Streak-backed Oriole appeared. Another wander added yet more Coatis, a group of about 20 this time, but by now the heat was really building, soaring up towards 30 C and beyond. Returned to the shade of the lawns and lazed for an hour or so, then began the afternoon wanders. Bits and bobs here and there, a Rufous-and-White Wren in woodland, two Great Black Hawk elsewhere, a Lesser Ground Squirrel in a swampy area of bush land. I however still had a number of specialities yet to see, plus a desire to see a Jabiru, which despite long scans across the marsh had yet to materialise. First, a long stomp through the dry tropical forestlands - plenty of goodies in here, but soon began to bump into the birds I sought. First up was a pair of Common Pauraques roosting on the ground, then a stunning Turquoise-browed Motmot and almost simultaneously a male Elegant Trogon. Continued up the path, a long birdless spell followed, but the punctuation was dramatic - a fabulous Laughing Falcon perched in a tree. Soon added two Long-tailed Manakins, then decided it was time to return to the marsh to wait out the rest of the day. With only a couple of hours till dark, my hope was that a Jabiru would fly in to roost. And wait I did, two hours till the light had faded to darkness. Did I see a Jabiru? Nope. But a good couple of hours nonetheless - Jacanas and Purple Gallinules hurtling about, four Muscovy Ducks, a passage of hirundines heading to roost, mostly Barn Swallows, but also Grey-breasted Martins and Sand Martins.
It was now dark, decision time, stay overnight or head on. I opted to leave, in hindsight I wish I had given this locality another day, but the journey out was good two - 18 Common Pauraque on the tracks, two Lesser Nighthawks, plus a assortment of mammals - one Eastern Cottontail, one White-tailed Deer and, odd little things, three Common Grey Four-eyed Opossum. Couldn’t find a hotel locally, ended up driving all the way to Monteverde. An impressive drive, the infamous tracks a interesting challenge in the dark!
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birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
Great read so far Jos....and love that 2nd coati photo - shame it wasn't taken a year ago as it would be a fine addition to the first volume of HMW!!
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6 September. Monteverde.
Oo er, they don’t call it cloud forest for nothing! The peaks were cloaked in low cloud, swirling mists and drizzle - this was going to be the first non-sun day of the trip!
Wrapped in waterproofs, got to the gates of Monteverde Cloud Forest a good hour before they were due to open. No rain at that stage, so strolled down the entrance track - good views over neighbouring woodland, plenty of birds to get the day going - abundant Common Bush-Tanagers and Three-striped Warblers, a Prong-billed Barbet, plus a Brown-capped Vireo and the first Grey-breasted Wood-Wrens of the day. The rain started, I retreated to the shelter of the reserve headquarter - a flock of Collared Redstarts flitted through dripping branches, some monkeys swung nearby, an Ochraceous Wren put in a brief appearance.
Gates opened, rain let up, in we went. Grey gloom, mists hanging heavy. But birds abundant, flock after flock moving through - predominantly Common Bush-Tanagers and Three-striped Warblers, but in their midst birds to drool over, Spangle-cheeked Tanagers, Slate-throated Redstarts, Black-and-Yellow Silky-Flycatchers. Whoever named all these birds however sure had an imagination - amongst the flocks, routing through epiphyte and moss-draped branches or upon the dark forest floor, were birds as weird and wonderful as their very names - Grey-throated Leaf-tosser, Lineated Foliage-Gleaner, Spotted Barbtail, Streak-breasted Tree-hunter, the list went on. All attired in shades of brown, and invariably accompanied by Ruddy Treerunner and Spotted Woodcreepers, these Neotropical specials were birds of subtle delight.
My chosen trail took me across a hanging bridge, the valley below a carpet of canopies, perfect for birding the treetops. Or at least it would have been, but mist hung low …I saw not a single bird! Onward, I cut back down to the main trail, a Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush hopped along the path, several Louisiana Waterthrushes too, but the cloud was darkening - all appeared doomed to a soggy finale. Brief stops on a hurried return to the gates added several Black-faced Solitaire, three Golden-crowned Warblers and a flock of Silver-throated Tanagers. One Eye-ringed Flatbill marked the moment the heavens opened, absolute torrential rain. I legged it, arriving moments later at the very nice little café just below the reserve. Very nice not only for the ground coffee and apple and cinnamon cakes, but more so for the never-to-be-forgotten hummingbird feeders! Sitting under a nice shelter, coffee in hand, an absolutely amazing performance was playing out before us - dozens and dozens of hummingbirds, a half dozen species and more, all going berserk around the fifteen or so feeders, Bananaquits also vying for place. Just sat in awe, not even trying to identify the new ones at that stage - mind-blowing stuff, all a metre or two from your nose!
Coffee finished, and the second one too, it was time to start sorting out the species. In a flurry, Violet Sabrewings and Green Violetears, both familiar birds from earlier in the trip, zipped in and out, sat upon dripping twigs and buzzed at the feeders, ten to twenty of each present at any one time. Even more abundant, Purple-throated Mountain-Gems and Coppery-headed Emeralds, these little sparklers were everywhere, perhaps 30 to 40 of each, a giddying experience. Rain dripping did little to dampen their levels of activity, it was hummingbirds left, right and centre, not fussed by weather, not fussed by human intruder in close admiration. Amongst them, more species - a dozen or so Green-crowned Brilliants, two Green Hermits, owners of bills to kill for, and on one brief occasion, one Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, this latter one almost sneaking in unseen until a distinctive chestnut wing panel flashed before my eyes! Poor Bananaquits, so many hummingbirds, barely a person gave them a second glance as they too sampled the wares of the feeders.
An hour on, the rain let up, time to descend a little, back into sunny lands. A few kilometres down, a woman was flapping her arms in the road - not totally deranged, but rather excited. With little choice, we stopped. Aside the road, three Resplendent Quetzals, a bonus bird for the day, plus too a Blue-crowned Motmot. Thanked the lady profusely, then headed on to next destination - a little cake shop we had spied on the way up, very nice it was too, though decidedly lacking in birds, think they need some feeders too!
Suitably refreshed, back to Monteverde we went, the car now making a horrible clonking sound every time we tried a left turn. This was not looking good, not only was it clonking and not only were there many left turns on these roads, but it was also periodically locking, then suddenly breaking free, sending the car on a violent voyage across the road! Oo er, but no way was I quitting the birding just now to sort it out!
Afternoon was far quieter in the forest, birds had seemingly vanished - I struggled to even find the previously abundant Common Bush-Tanagers and Three-striped Warblers! I persevered for a while, slowly added a few birds here and there - a Black-and-White Warbler, Speckled Tanager, Paltry Tyrannulet. Highlight of the afternoon, five Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches, rather less dramatic were Olive-sided Flycatcher and Western Wood-Pewee. The rain returned, time to call it quits, back to the village we went, our room awaiting.
Oo er, they don’t call it cloud forest for nothing! The peaks were cloaked in low cloud, swirling mists and drizzle - this was going to be the first non-sun day of the trip!
Wrapped in waterproofs, got to the gates of Monteverde Cloud Forest a good hour before they were due to open. No rain at that stage, so strolled down the entrance track - good views over neighbouring woodland, plenty of birds to get the day going - abundant Common Bush-Tanagers and Three-striped Warblers, a Prong-billed Barbet, plus a Brown-capped Vireo and the first Grey-breasted Wood-Wrens of the day. The rain started, I retreated to the shelter of the reserve headquarter - a flock of Collared Redstarts flitted through dripping branches, some monkeys swung nearby, an Ochraceous Wren put in a brief appearance.
Gates opened, rain let up, in we went. Grey gloom, mists hanging heavy. But birds abundant, flock after flock moving through - predominantly Common Bush-Tanagers and Three-striped Warblers, but in their midst birds to drool over, Spangle-cheeked Tanagers, Slate-throated Redstarts, Black-and-Yellow Silky-Flycatchers. Whoever named all these birds however sure had an imagination - amongst the flocks, routing through epiphyte and moss-draped branches or upon the dark forest floor, were birds as weird and wonderful as their very names - Grey-throated Leaf-tosser, Lineated Foliage-Gleaner, Spotted Barbtail, Streak-breasted Tree-hunter, the list went on. All attired in shades of brown, and invariably accompanied by Ruddy Treerunner and Spotted Woodcreepers, these Neotropical specials were birds of subtle delight.
My chosen trail took me across a hanging bridge, the valley below a carpet of canopies, perfect for birding the treetops. Or at least it would have been, but mist hung low …I saw not a single bird! Onward, I cut back down to the main trail, a Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush hopped along the path, several Louisiana Waterthrushes too, but the cloud was darkening - all appeared doomed to a soggy finale. Brief stops on a hurried return to the gates added several Black-faced Solitaire, three Golden-crowned Warblers and a flock of Silver-throated Tanagers. One Eye-ringed Flatbill marked the moment the heavens opened, absolute torrential rain. I legged it, arriving moments later at the very nice little café just below the reserve. Very nice not only for the ground coffee and apple and cinnamon cakes, but more so for the never-to-be-forgotten hummingbird feeders! Sitting under a nice shelter, coffee in hand, an absolutely amazing performance was playing out before us - dozens and dozens of hummingbirds, a half dozen species and more, all going berserk around the fifteen or so feeders, Bananaquits also vying for place. Just sat in awe, not even trying to identify the new ones at that stage - mind-blowing stuff, all a metre or two from your nose!
Coffee finished, and the second one too, it was time to start sorting out the species. In a flurry, Violet Sabrewings and Green Violetears, both familiar birds from earlier in the trip, zipped in and out, sat upon dripping twigs and buzzed at the feeders, ten to twenty of each present at any one time. Even more abundant, Purple-throated Mountain-Gems and Coppery-headed Emeralds, these little sparklers were everywhere, perhaps 30 to 40 of each, a giddying experience. Rain dripping did little to dampen their levels of activity, it was hummingbirds left, right and centre, not fussed by weather, not fussed by human intruder in close admiration. Amongst them, more species - a dozen or so Green-crowned Brilliants, two Green Hermits, owners of bills to kill for, and on one brief occasion, one Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, this latter one almost sneaking in unseen until a distinctive chestnut wing panel flashed before my eyes! Poor Bananaquits, so many hummingbirds, barely a person gave them a second glance as they too sampled the wares of the feeders.
An hour on, the rain let up, time to descend a little, back into sunny lands. A few kilometres down, a woman was flapping her arms in the road - not totally deranged, but rather excited. With little choice, we stopped. Aside the road, three Resplendent Quetzals, a bonus bird for the day, plus too a Blue-crowned Motmot. Thanked the lady profusely, then headed on to next destination - a little cake shop we had spied on the way up, very nice it was too, though decidedly lacking in birds, think they need some feeders too!
Suitably refreshed, back to Monteverde we went, the car now making a horrible clonking sound every time we tried a left turn. This was not looking good, not only was it clonking and not only were there many left turns on these roads, but it was also periodically locking, then suddenly breaking free, sending the car on a violent voyage across the road! Oo er, but no way was I quitting the birding just now to sort it out!
Afternoon was far quieter in the forest, birds had seemingly vanished - I struggled to even find the previously abundant Common Bush-Tanagers and Three-striped Warblers! I persevered for a while, slowly added a few birds here and there - a Black-and-White Warbler, Speckled Tanager, Paltry Tyrannulet. Highlight of the afternoon, five Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches, rather less dramatic were Olive-sided Flycatcher and Western Wood-Pewee. The rain returned, time to call it quits, back to the village we went, our room awaiting.
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Jeff Hopkins
Just another...observer
Bringing back great memories for me, too. I'm off to Panama in January to hopefully mop up on some of my CR misses. This gives me a bit of a refresher.
antshrike69
Well-known member
I'm loving this report still Jos - those frogs are such exquisite gems. I remember that Suampo trail well - strangely birdless on my visit too other than Dusky-faced Tanager.
Arriving late in the evening, Santa Elena and Monteverde are places of darkness and accommodation mostly looked closed, after several circuits of various lanes, not really having any idea where I was, we ended up at Pension Colibra, a budget place that was actually very nice (as were virtually all budget places in Costa Rica).
Next update in half an hour, writing now
