1st November:
Up early again as we wanted to be the first into Mantadia and a
Mad Nightjar was heard calling in the village above Luc’s. The gate officially doesn’t open until 0700 but it was open as we went through at 0615 so we were entering the forest earlier than we anticipated which was good. The
Rand’s Warbler was calling along the road as we drove up and 2
Mad Blue-Pigeons flew over the car-parking area and a pair of
Mad Starlings was perched in the trees above. Down into the forest we ventured and began the search for the last bird we needed here. As we wandered around we could hear
Indri calling, and a couple of very distant Black-&-White Ruffed-Lemurs were heard too – which was as close as we came to seeing this cool mammal unfortunately. We did see a couple of
Eastern Red Forest-Rats on our wanderings this morning.
We trudged the same trails as yesterday, crossing over the streams (and always making a effort to throw rocks and sticks in the water as Kev crossed
) until we heard a call not too far off. We ducked and dived along the trail until we approached a wide forest stream where Luc suddenly waved us down as our target was apparently on the opposite bank.....not that any of us could see it, with or without bins!! It then ran up a dead tree and disappeared. So Luc jumped into the water and, having no alternative and getting desperate now, we all followed suit and clambered up the other side where Luc did his usual disappearing act to find the birds. We stood for a good half an hour before suddenly movement was picked up in a dry gully in front of us. The call went up: ‘
Scaly Ground-Roller!’ Comments were being bandied about the vivid colour of its legs, the beautiful plumage etc....which was great except for one thing: I couldn’t bloody see it!!!!! Now starting to panic big-time....Chris getting stressed as I’m having palpitations as I just can’t get a bearing as to how far back they’re all looking. Finally, with help from Kev and moving sideways a bit I can see the fallen log and the stunning bird sitting atop it.....thank f*ck for that!! It dropped down to the ground and was joined by a second bird before they both ran up another fallen tree and disappeared. Phew!! The final ground-roller had finally been seen....and I was voted as having the best meltdown moment of the trip!
The best supporting-cast bird seen on the walk was our best (but brief) views of a cracking
Mad Crested Ibis as it walked along the sandy edge of a forest stream before taking off with surprising manoeuvrability through the trees. Others included
Blue Coua, Mad Paradise-Fly, Mad Magpie-Robin, Nelicourvi Weaver, Mad Cuckoo, Common Newtonia, Common Jery and
Greater Vasa Parrot. Also a single large
Madagascar Girdled-Lizard (
Zonosaurus madagascariensis) was seen as it climbed up some dead vegetation by a stream. Tragically, after much piss-taking, I also joined the rest of the group members on slipping and falling on my ass this morning too....dammit, nearly made the entire trip without that happening!
So, happy and relieved, we re-emerged back into the parking area, woke up Gabs and Omega and headed back out of the forest for the last time, passing the BQ group on the way – ha!! We stopped in at the
Mad Long-eared Owl roost again and this time the adult was sitting back up in the pines, watching us watching him – cool! Chris and I had our usual pine-cone fight (coz we’re so grown-up) and then we set off back towards Andasibe, stopping again by the road to look at the two immature owls, one of which was showing brilliantly. Upon our return, we got some good shots of the
Mad Flufftail and I went back to the room to find Dawn and as we came back out a little while later we found we’d missed breakfast somehow but Gabs came up trumps and got us some more bread and cheese. Just as we finished this, Gabs came back and excitedly told Dawn that Indris could be seen from the hotel restaurant so we dashed back across and watched the four amazing animals feeding in the trees opposite – brilliant stuff!
The others had problems of their own as Luc suddenly mentioned that they needed to vacate their rooms as they’d been booked already....so after much grumbling Gabs sorted them out rooms at the Feon’ny Ala too...albeit rooms that were right at the top of 4 flights of steps....hee hee! So, with everyone now in attendance it was time to head back to Perinet for a relaxing afternoon’s birding, the plan being to go in for a couple of hours, back for lunch, then back in again until the closing time. What could possibly go wrong?
We were soon walking back down the main path towards the trails from the HQ where we saw an impressive
Green Tree-Boa (
Sanzinia madagascariensis) curled up on the ground by the side of the path. Just across the first bridge we saw a couple of
Eastern Grey Bamboo-Lemurs by the path and stopped by the old fishponds where there were plenty of butterflies and dragonflies for people to photograph. When it was time to move on we took the path off and up to the right, climbing the 60-odd steps to reach a higher trail. Now this is where the day went wrong for one of us. Wandering along the trail I noticed Chris wasn’t with us, but thought that he was just taking his time and photographing bits and bobs and was on his way. Time passed and he still wasn’t there so I stopped the group for a bit and watched the party of
Common Brown Lemurs in the trees above the path and sent Luc off to find him.
Chris was nowhere to be seen and I knew what he’d done: somehow he never noticed us leaving (even though Bola was further away and he did!), never heard us stomping up the steep steps and when he turned around to find us all gone, he assumed we’d taken the bottom path as we had done on our first visit! He walked down this, initially thinking we were taking the piss, and then it obvious that we weren’t along it after all and then he bumped into another guide who informed that it was illegal to be in the park without a guide. Chris told him that he did have a guide, just that guide had lost him. The other guide was having none of it and walked Chris back to the HQ so they could phone Luc....but upon the arrival it turned out no-one had Luc’s number! Uh-oh...Chris was now beginning to get seriously pissed off with it all and decided to wait for us to return for lunch. Unfortunately we’d lost so much time in waiting for Luc to return with Chris that we decided it wasn’t worth going out again, then back in again as we’d run out of time. So after Luc returned and told us what had happened, a phonecall to Gaby to say we weren’t coming back out for lunch was completely misinterpreted back to us saying that Chris had said bollox to it all and was going back to the hotel....whereas in reality he’d said nothing of the sort. So, we carried on, none-the-wiser.
We checked out the Rainforest Scops and Collared Nightjar roosts but drew blanks on both but had several good views of
Eastern Avahis and some close Indris that were calling loudly but annoyingly stopped just as we located them – buggers!! Luc did do well in finding a brilliant female
Parson’s Chameleon (
Furcifer parsonii) high up in a tree and then the jaw-dropping male soon after – what an amazing reptile, absolutely stunning, certainly the best chameleon of the trip! We took the path that winds out to the back of the park and it was along here that Kev finally caught up with the dreaded
White-throated Oxylabes! Great views were had by all and Kev certainly looked relieved!! Out the back of beyond Luc played the tape and got a very distant reply from a
Short-legged Ground-Roller but it never responded again, nor did Rufous-headed. We did have a green-legged stick-insect and a large green pill-bug here. Birds included
Hook-billed Vanga, Red-fronted Coua, Spectacled Tetraka, Green Jery, Cuckoo-Roller, Long-billed Bernieria, Mad White-eye and a
Mad Wood-Rail was briefly seen as we made our way back along this path, which Kelvin almost disappeared off of as his foot fell through some old vegetation....not good as the drop is sheer and actually pretty damn high!
Several
Gravenhorst’s Mabuyas were seen along the paths and back at Green Lake we saw a few un-id’d cichlid fish swimming in it and a
Lined Day-Gecko (
Phelsuma lineata) by the pergola and Dawn and Kelvin finally saw an awesome Giraffe-necked Weevil as Luc found a male nearby on its favoured bush – cool stuff, although Kelvin nearly disappeared again as he almost took one backwards step too many as he photographed it!! We reluctantly began the final walk out along the main path when, just the other side of the bridge, Dawn fortuitously saw some movement out of the corner of her eye....and there was a stonking
Lowland Streaked-Tenrec creeping into the bushes by the side of the path!! Wow, what a fantastic animal, tiny and coloured like a bumblebee! We waved B and Kev back to us and we all had great views as it quickly clambered through the bamboo and was gone.
So that was that, our last visit to a Madagascan National Park and it hadn’t disappointed. Dawn and Kelvin were very happy we’d re-jigged the itinerary, and so were the rest of us really as we’d caught up on all the remaining birds we’d needed. We planned a nightwalk for later and returned to the hotel to chill out for a while until dark. Dawn and I watched our ‘pet’
Lined Day-Gecko run around on the balcony and then Chris came knocking to find out what had happened....thankfully he was actually alot more chilled and calmer than I’d imagined – more so than I would’ve been!
We booked the table for dinner and went out for a nightwalk beforehand. We had excellent views of several
Furry-eared Dwarf-Lemurs and a few
Goodman’s Mouse-Lemurs too.
Green Bright-eyed Frogs (
Boophis viridis) were seen along the road with a
Madagascar Jumping-Frog (
Aglyptodactylus madagascariensis) seen below the bridge whilst just beyond here Kev came up trumps and found a nice young
Parson’s Chameleon which pleased Chris as at least he saw one! Other chameleons seen comprised the expected
Big-nosed (
Calumma nasutum) and
Short-horned (
C. brevicorne) with a supporting cast of various crickets, glow bugs and spiders to grab our attention.
Dinner was as yummy as always and after the bills were settled we all retired to our rooms for the night only for us to be jumped by Luc demanding money which is where he came undone and any affinity we had for hum disappeared. Gabs fought our corner and we left Luc there to mull over what we were to do. As I reiterated the details to Dawn (who’d left dinner early as she still wasn’t 100%) Chris came belting down to ours to tell us of a huge moth in their shower block. So I ran back with him and got some photos (unfortunately not the Comet Moth I was hoping for) but pretty cool nonetheless! A
Rainforest Scops-Owl called from the forest beyond as I returned to our room and I climbed into bed for a well-earned sleep.