South Africa - when/where to go? (1 Viewer)

[CJW]

Hello all,
we're thinking of going to South Africa in 2006. A long time away I know, but I like to plan in advance (it's not like going to somewhere in Europe after all!). We are unsure of when/where to go and would love a few suggestions.
I've read a couple of trip reports form an August visit on here, but I was kinda hoping to be going a bit sooner than that (February?) as it will be a long time between holidays.
Appreciate any help and advice you can give.

 

[Andrew Whitehouse]

Hi Chris,

I went to South Africa in October a few years ago, although not strictly speaking on a birding trip (but I did manage over 200 species!). I spent most of my time in Orange Free State but also did a trip from there down to Cape Town. October's certainly a good time of the year, although not many of the northern hemisphere winter visitors had arrived, apart from waders and you'll probably do better for seabirds in the austral winter.

Most of my birdwatching was done wherever I could, rather than by visiting the best places. I did go to a couple of good national parks. Wilderness National Park near George on the south coast has very good forest habitats where I saw Knysna Louries and a few other good forest species. West Coast National Park was good for raptors and waders and I also had Bank Cormorant and Jackass Penguin in the area. I saw quite a bit around Graaf Reinet in the karoo, including Ludwig's and Kori Bustards from the road. I also know of a fairly easy site (at least a few years ago) for Cape Rockjumper near Cape Town.

It's a great country for birds, so you should see plenty anywhere at any time. Other wildlife isn't bad either - if you're there at a good time for Southern Right Whales then you'll be in for a treat.

 

[CJW]

Thanks Andrew. Trouble is though, the whales are there from June to October. So Summer 2005 would be too soon (for our finances) and Summer 2006 too late (for our sanity!).
I guess something will have to be sacrificed and, given the rest of the none-bird stuff that we'll see, the whales would be the ones to lose. So, it's looking like the 'northern hemisphere winter months' (say, Feb '06).
Keren would also like a bit of time to relax (dude that she is!), so I'm kinda hoping the second week around the Cape would be the best solution (?).
Any thoughts?

 

[Andrew Whitehouse]

A good place in Cape Town itself is Rondevlei, which is a marshland reserve with hides etc. Quite a good selection of stuff and easy to do in a couple of hours. It also has resident Hippoes. Here's a bird list:

http://www.rondevlei.co.za/frames.htm

I did a bit of birding round the Cape Peninsula, including a bit of a seawatch. This was okay but a bit frustrating because the waves were too big - lots of albatrosses disappearing out of sight.

 

[Paul Wood]

Hi Chris,

I lived in South Africa from 1991 to 2001 and have plenty of site info for SA endemics. If you want to e-mail me off forum, I'll be happy to help. You might also want to check out these websites:

http://www.zestforbirds.co.za

http://www.birding-africa.com

If you spend time in Cape Town and want to see seabirds go on an organised pelagic - you won't regret it.

Cheers

Paul

 

[CJW]

Thanks for the help, you guys. Unfortunately having looked at several options we have decided that South Africa, for us, is well beyond affordability.

 

[Jos Stratford]

Hi Chris,

Don't give up on South Africa - after the flight, it's not so expensive. Spent many months there and it's a fantastic country ...and cheaper than the UK by quite a lot. For example, I rented a car and got a good deal for a new car for about £8 a day. In National Parks, MUCH cheaper than in East Africa, the campsites are very good value, again cheaper than in the UK, plus are excellant - well-equipped and full of birds. Throughout the country, there are hostels which cater for backpackers and also have rooms too for not too much. I have a very detailed trip report - over 100 pages! - if you reconsider.

 

[TwoBoy]

Hi Chris

Please don't give up on us.

We have everything you want, birds, animals, reptiles etc. Once you have decided what you want check out pricing. Our hotels are cheap (some * star here are like a *** or **** star in Europe) and often have specials. Kruger Park accommodation, just as an example, costs only GBP36 per night for 2 people sharing, food extra, park fee extra. You can camp very cheaply and hire campers at reasonable rates. Food is basically cheap unless you must have caviar and I think we are one of the few countries where tap water is just as safe as bottled water so that is another cost factor taken care of. Touring with tour companies can be expensive and most of the tour guides ("khaki kids") are full of BS so do it yourself.

One thing to remember is our country is huge - you need to decide on something and stick to it otherwise your holiday will just be traveltime only. I am a Kruger Park fanatic so recommend it strongly - a list of the birds and mammals and more detail can be found on this website http://www.parks-sa.co.za/frames.asp?mainurl=sitemap/sitemap.html

Good camps to start at would be Lower Sabie/Skukuza or Satara and then work your way to the North. You will need lots of digital storage or film and at least a 400mm lens. I have only in the last 2 weeks taken some UK visitors there and it boggled their minds. Our rainy season in the Park is mainly Nov to Mar so try to avoid those months but anytime is still good.

Some of the camps have swimming pools etc so there is also lots of time to relax if you want to lie back and tan. Each hut/rondavel is equipped with a braai so you can eat cheap with a barbeque every night, eat it the camp cafe (costs not a lot more) or in the Camp Restaurant (about GBP8 p.p.) - a big enough meal to keep you going all day.

You won't be sorry and I reckon once you come you will have been bitten and come back for more and more and more and .............

 

[sparrowbirder]

Hello all,
we're thinking of going to South Africa in 2006. A long time away I know, but I like to plan in advance (it's not like going to somewhere in Europe after all!). We are unsure of when/where to go and would love a few suggestions.
I've read a couple of trip reports form an August visit on here, but I was kinda hoping to be going a bit sooner than that (February?) as it will be a long time between holidays.
Appreciate any help and advice you can give.

Chris,id reccomend SA to anybody its a fantastic birding destination,if you do go be sure to book yourself on one of the Cape Town pelagic trips,approaching a trawler off the Cape with literally hundreds of seabirds everywhere is an experience never to be forgotten!! I went in 2002 for a couple of weeks and even with an internal flight,car hire,accomodation etc it cost me just over £1000 , im off to Namibia next week and anticipation is high at the moment!!

 

[TwoBoy]

Chris

You need to decide what you want to see and how long you have to spend here. This country is just so big you can only get part of it covered. What do you want to see? How long have you got?

 

[CJW]

In theory, we have only two weeks and would definitely want to 'do' Kruger and the Mrs. really wants to see penguins so I suppose that's down to the Cape for the second week. Trouble is, we (she) wouldn't want to be moving bases too often and also we (she) would want to be 'comfortable'. She has looked in a few brochures and it's looking like costing about £5k for the two of us by the time car hire, and 'spending money' is factored in.
I think we'll probably go back to Bulgaria in the Spring next year and put SA on hold until our 20th. Wedding Anniversary in February 2007.

 

[david kelly]

Chris,

If you only have two weeks and want to see big game and penguins have you thought about Namibia?

I have never been to Kruger but I have been to southern Africa a few times. Etosha is a superb National Park where in one night at a waterhole we saw nine Black Rhinos. There are penguins on the coast and pelagics may go from Walvis Bay.

Another good site is the Waterberg NP but unfortunately I wasn't able to get there when I went.

Windhoek Lager is pretty good too better than Castle or Lion.

David

 

[Jos Stratford]

In theory, we have only two weeks and would definitely want to 'do' Kruger and the Mrs. really wants to see penguins so I suppose that's down to the Cape for the second week. Trouble is, we (she) wouldn't want to be moving bases too often and also we (she) would want to be 'comfortable'. She has looked in a few brochures and it's looking like costing about £5k for the two of us by the time car hire, and 'spending money' is factored in.
I think we'll probably go back to Bulgaria in the Spring next year and put SA on hold until our 20th. Wedding Anniversary in February 2007.

South Africa is a leasurely place to travel and a week in Kruger and week in the amazing Cape Town area is a very attractive option, costs are not high - I seriously think you can do two weeks for much less than £5000, even allowing for wife's comfort requirements. Talk to the South African members for more info.
Namibia is also another attractive option as suggested by another poster - Etosha is as amazing as Kruger, some say better - I'd prefer to say different but absolutely less people there. As for penguins, the Namibian ones are easiest seen at Luderitz - which is a LONG drive if you're doing Etosha too ...I think Etosha to Luderitz is about 1000 km!!!

I've spent about three years in southern Africa, and while I don't claim to be an authority, I'd say South Africa is your best bet for a two-week comfortable birding trip. South Africa is also marginally cheaper, especially for car hire. Kulula Air offer cheapish flights between Jo'burg and Cape Town - Easy Jet stlye set-up.

 

[TwoBoy]

Ag Shame!

Poor little wifey want to travel 1st class everywhere and miss the real African experience.

What you mention spending is way beyond what the average person on the Forum would spend, or need to spend. Perhaps a subscription to Luxury Living should be where you should be making enquiries.

It sounds like "she" is not with the real world. Africa can be experienced in a number of ways - "she's" way or a lot of other ways. The true African experience is really gained in what you do and what you see. Paying treble will not guarantee you will see the big five, the complete raptor list or anything else. You are better off being given information by or being guided by "lowly rangers" who take a year to earn what you suggest spending in a week, rather than some fancy "Khaki Kid" (tour guide) whose sole claim to fame is a 6 week bush course and an in-depth knowledge of wines and protocol - you know the type I'm sure - they don't f-rt, they pass air.

Do your research properly - even allowing for pith helmets you should not need more than 2.5K at the most. From this sort of money I would expect to live very well and still have quite a bit of change. I do not mean living in hovels but I don't believe in paying BS prices either.

My Kruger booking for December - 5 days, 4 nights is setting me back R1680 - R840 per person, that's under GBP80 per person. Meals and booze - good food and grog - less than GBP12 p.p.p.d. Park fees another GBP80-100 for the 2 of you for the period (I have a Wild Card so don't have that cost) - that's about GBP100 p.d. For this you will get a comfortable rest hut, clean sheets (daily), good grub, air con in the room, toilet and shower (yes, even hot water), fresh towels each day etc.

Elsewhere there are lots of country hotels, not 5 star but which offer good clean accommodation and good food in very friendly atmospheres. These places have local knowledge which they will pass on to you. They range from GBP30-65 DBB p.p.p.d. I use these as the food is nice, plenty of it, the ladies bar is where you can get a lot of info and because a lot are privately owned they look after you and want your business - you are not #1267896543 in a computer but a real person to them.

You need to hire cars but you can get very good deals on these in the various centres you visit. Prices are not that high.

 

[Jos Stratford]

Ag Shame!

Poor little rich boy and wifey want to travel 1st class everywhere and miss the real African experience.

What you mention spending is way beyond what the average person on the Forum would spend. Perhaps a subscription to Luxury Living should be where you should be making enquiries.

It sounds like "she" and "he" are not with the real world.

A bit harsh TwoBoy, this guy was simply looking for advice and if they wish to travel in a style that is different to you or I, so be it. And I think when they referred to £5000, it was followed by comments to the effect that they couldn't afford such a sum. However, if they were looking to spent twice that on a trip, good luck to them. Under your name, I read "Never interfere with other people's way of life" , maybe some soul-searching?

 

[TwoBoy]

A bit harsh TwoBoy, this guy was simply looking for advice and if they wish to travel in a style that is different to you or I, so be it. And I think when they referred to £5000, it was followed by comments to the effect that they couldn't afford such a sum. However, if they were looking to spent twice that on a trip, good luck to them. Under your name, I read "Never interfere with other people's way of life" , maybe some soul-searching?

See #14 above your post - I tnink what happens is that people never look for the obvious and only see what the travel agents want to sell. You point is well taken.

 

[TwoBoy]

Rsa Trip

Chris

Seriously.

For planning I suggest you contact the South African Tourist Office in London and ask them too send you whatever they have - this will give you good starting points. Any trip to RSA should include the Kruger Park - it's a magic place. I have always found at least 4 of the big 5 there in 2 days or less. I am not so sure about the Cape - if you catch the weather right it is magnificient, if you don't its awful. Try to keep your itinery as flexible as possible - get your Kruger week in but be prepared to swop the Cape for somewhere else if needs be due to lousy weather.

The Southern Sun hotel group often has specials - 2 stay for the price of one - If you email me your postal address I will send you what I can from here. Two weeks is very soon gobbled up and you will find you have missed a lot - my recommendation is to use travel agents for flights only. If you join any tour you will be herded around and often not given the time to look at what YOU want to see. There are lots of birding clubs here where you can make contacts and some will even invite you to join them on outings. They will of course generally be more bird orientated than the rest of us who try to look at everything.

I personally think that you will be looking at an exchange rate of GBP1=ZAR12 by the time you get here so your money will go a long way. That is, if everything stays as it is. Any large increase in tourist visits will cause prices to rise, but if it stays pretty static it should be OK for you.

One thing you must get is decent travel insurance which allows for private as opposed to government hospitals in this country. Also you do not say how fit you are and if you have any special needs. If you can sit in you car for 10 hours a day in Kruger you will see so much you will get blase about it. I try to get out of the car at a hide around lunchtime for an hour or two depending on what is to be seen.

You will need a day or two to get your eyes "bushwise" and then all of a sudden you will start seeing much more. I have attached a couple of pictures for you - 2 of Kruger rest huts, 2 taken at the Malane Sun on the Park Border and 1 of lions noshing a giraffe. This is what you can expect at Kruger plus much, much more.

Let's try to get you all the info you need and show that we are a helpful tribe. I must start developing a list of links which provide potential visitors with a lot of info.

Cheers
Doug

 

[James Eaton]

Hi Chris,

South Africa can be done on the cheap very easily, though maybe think about missing Kruger due to time restraints and visit some game reserves closer to J'burg, Kruger is apparently very hard work if time is limited due to the sheer size of the place. I visited this area and Cape in November - December 2003, my trip report is on this link if you want more detailed informtion

http://www.birdtours.co.uk/tripreports/s_africa/tour9/sa-dec-03.htm

If you would like any more info from me email me privately

All the best

 

[janesmith]

Hello all,
we're thinking of going to South Africa in 2006. A long time away I know, but I like to plan in advance (it's not like going to somewhere in Europe after all!). We are unsure of when/where to go and would love a few suggestions.
I've read a couple of trip reports form an August visit on here, but I was kinda hoping to be going a bit sooner than that (February?) as it will be a long time between holidays.
Appreciate any help and advice you can give.

Kruger is great. Easy driving. LHS always helps. Good cheap accommodation. Birds, animals and very friendly helpful people.

 

[CJW]

It's looking like it may be on the cards again, thanks to you lot .