Sarapiqui bird walks (1 Viewer)

[Hamhed]

This past week, I inquired about entering three well known birding areas in the Sarapiqui area. Here are the replies:

La Selva - I was directed to their website (http://www.threepaths.co.cr/) where there a wide variety of options. However, none seem to offer the chance to go without using one of their guides. A "Short Regular Guided Walk" lasts 3 hours and costs $35 each for 1-10 persons. A "Long Regular Guided Walk" last 6 hours and is $45 each. These tours start at 8 am. An "Early Birding Tour", (assuming this is guided also) starts at 5:45am, no time period given, is $50.
I note that the "Regular Guided Walks" may not focus on birding since they are not private.

Selva Verde (http://www.selvaverde.com/lang/en/) - A more personal email answered:
If you take lunch with us, the price for the hike is $10 per person, so the total is $26 per person: lunch and selfguided hike (you decide the time for the hike).
The alternative of not taking lunch with them is not mentioned. No mention of how early one can enter or how long one can bird the property.

Tirimbina (http://www.tirimbina.org/) - Another direct response saying :
The price for the bird tour is $28 per person and start at 6am. Or you can do the self guided walk between 6am - 5pm and the price is $17 per person.
At one time, their bridge over the Sarapiqui had a gate that did not open until 8am but in a response to my question on the subject, I was told it opens at 6am now.

I will likely have the chance to try only one of these options in April. Having been to Tirimbina before and not doing terribly well, I am not really keen on trying it again. It does have a very good reputation so a second chance might be worth while.
Selva Verde, from what I've read, will probably be much like Tirimbina as far as birds go. Lodging and meals are more upscale. If the birding could last at least the entire morning and we get a good lunch, this might be overall the best deal. I have never birded their grounds.
La Selva used to be in the "too expensive for my blood" category but I'm beginning to see a rise in prices all over Costa Rica that is making a two or three night stay at la Selva look not so far out of the budget. Here's a chance to do some recon on the birding there. Having a guide sure wouldn't hurt.

There are still many weeks for me to make that decision. Others getting there in the next couple of months may find this helpful.

Steve

 

[njlarsen]

I did not do terribly well at Tirimbina either as you might recall. Someone else was there shortly after me with much better luck

Niels

 

[gdhunter]

La Selva used to be in the "too expensive for my blood" category but I'm beginning to see a rise in prices all over Costa Rica that is making a two or three night stay at la Selva look not so far out of the budget.

Steve: as Patrick & others have noted, La Selva (while still retaining much quality habitat) has lost some of its sheen as a birding destination, but after having twice reserved guided tours (on a day visitor basis) I wonder if the problem is the place or the people. On my first half-day tour a few years ago my friend & I waited for over an hour to begin the tour (after arriving early). For the second tour I was pre-assigned a guide described as the "lead guide" for the operation, and I communicated by email with him & with tour reservations staff several times. It had all the right vibes until we arrive and he's not even there and is apparently on a day off; while my friend and I birded the fields across the road (with some nice results) the office scrambled to make something happen, and about 90 minutes later (perhaps 2.5 hours after the scheduled start time) we were introduced to a guide identified as the brother of our reserved guide. He knew his birds and we had a productive tour (if you take into account the fact that we started well past the prime birding hours in a tropical forest).

Overnight guests probably offer more sanguine assessments of their experience. I avoid the use of absolutes, but when it comes to another attempt to bird La Selve I'd employ the term "never".

If I were fortunate enough to be scheduling time in the Sarapiqui I'd probably opt for Tirimbina (in what would then become my fifth stay there). The forest isn't La Selva, but to my (perhaps clueless) eye it is all of the equal to Selva Verde's forest and more. The sighting of an Agami Heron in two widely separated sections of the preserve on consecutive days ranks as a real highlight of my birding experiences, and is perhaps illustrative of Tirimbina's true birding potential.

Gary H

 

[tapaculo]

I am staying at La Selva at the moment. The options we are aware of overlap only partially with what you found. There is an introductory tour from 8-11 free for all residents; some others joined who were staying at Selva Verde and perhaps other lodges, I'm not sure of the logistics. Ours was led by Octavio and was almost entirely focussed on birds; he know of (very hidden) roosts for Crested and Vermiculated Screech Owls, and searched intensely for Umbrellabird, though without success. We were also offered 2-hours guided bird walks from 5:45 am and something for night birds, both for $50 per person; another guide recommended LS's guide Joel as very skilled and knowledgeable. We are probably going to just continue on our own...

 

[Birdingcraft]

All three sites can be great. Bonus of La Selva is a better chance at seeing roosting owls (as tapaculo mentioned) and higher chance of seeing Great Potoo and umbrellabird (because guides tend to know where they have been). Birding in the HQ clearing is also nice and the entrance road is great- I was there mid-day on Saturday and had good photo opps of Chestnut-colored Woodpecker, White-ringed Flycatcher, and some other bird species. Always a lot of potential.

Selva Verde always has potential and fair chance at Sunbittern and F. Tiger Heron on the river but I don't know how their birding tours are. I would guess that they are probably good and umbrellabird also occurs there during the winter months.

Tirimbina- sounds like it may have improved a bit especially the 6 a.m. opening time. I really like their forest and it seems better for antbirds, nunbird, and understory species compared to the other two sites. I also like their hanging bridges and views of river and canopy.

Hard to say but I would guess that the early morning birding tour at La Selva would be most productive of the three options (as long as everything goes as planned).

 

[Hamhed]

Thanks for all the comments.
Niels, I do recall our parallel experiences at Tirimbina. Condsidering its reputation, I have to chalk it up to weather or just poor timing. Worth another try someday to test out that theory.
Gary, I am like you and many people who have come to expect halfway punctual meetings and better communication than oft times happens in Costa Rica. My take on this is that these birding trips we take have a high daily cost that drive us travelers to making the most of every hour, especially those birdy early mornings, when "normal" people are still dreaming. Obviously sometimes, our position not given the attention we feel is warranted. Maybe if we lived there or had limitless time, we would accept the Pura Vida attitude more readily. Until that time, I will be up before dawn every day in Costa Rica.
Tapaculo, how are you doing on your own? Are you finding the bird life at La Selva of a high quality? I would object to paying $25 an hour each for a guide. Only once have I used a guide in Costa Rica whose abilities were poorer than my own. However, the common policy of birding guides (in any country) charging per person does not sit well with me. In my mind, the guide should charge by the hour. I would be unlikely to join a group of more than four or five others at the same cost as a private tour. The bigger the group, the less individual attention one is given and the poorer the experience yet the guide is driven to the opposite goal of making the group as large as possible. I have guided locally for 1 to 15 people so I realize the higher number of participants is more work (sometimes just trying to keep the group quiet) but the hours are the same and there are more eyes and ears to help me find the birds that everyone wants to see.
Patrick, thanks for your comments on the Sarapiqui area birding. I saw your very impressive eBird post on the La Selva entrance road. I am leaning on trying Selva Verde most likely because I have never been there and I love exploring new places. Have you ever driven on the backroads behind either Tirimbina, where the field station is, or Selva Verde? On a Google satellite view, there are roads visible that traverse the partially cleared areas between those two reserves and Brauilo Carrillo's forests. On this trip, we'll have a four wheel drive SUV and we may do some exploring. The location of Magsaysay Lodge (http://www.pozoazul.com/index.html) is the general area I am interested in. From this distance, birding potential looks good. By the way, I enjoyed your recent description of the Nightingale Wren as a "piece of dirt". Liz and I have had them singing just a few feet away and not able to get more than a glimpse. True skulkers. Snow falling here and a high of 33 degrees forecasted. Your blog is better than an armload of firewood!

Steve

 

[Birdingcraft]

Thanks for all the comments.
Niels, I do recall our parallel experiences at Tirimbina. Condsidering its reputation, I have to chalk it up to weather or just poor timing. Worth another try someday to test out that theory.
Gary, I am like you and many people who have come to expect halfway punctual meetings and better communication than oft times happens in Costa Rica. My take on this is that these birding trips we take have a high daily cost that drive us travelers to making the most of every hour, especially those birdy early mornings, when "normal" people are still dreaming. Obviously sometimes, our position not given the attention we feel is warranted. Maybe if we lived there or had limitless time, we would accept the Pura Vida attitude more readily. Until that time, I will be up before dawn every day in Costa Rica.
Tapaculo, how are you doing on your own? Are you finding the bird life at La Selva of a high quality? I would object to paying $25 an hour each for a guide. Only once have I used a guide in Costa Rica whose abilities were poorer than my own. However, the common policy of birding guides (in any country) charging per person does not sit well with me. In my mind, the guide should charge by the hour. I would be unlikely to join a group of more than four or five others at the same cost as a private tour. The bigger the group, the less individual attention one is given and the poorer the experience yet the guide is driven to the opposite goal of making the group as large as possible. I have guided locally for 1 to 15 people so I realize the higher number of participants is more work (sometimes just trying to keep the group quiet) but the hours are the same and there are more eyes and ears to help me find the birds that everyone wants to see.
Patrick, thanks for your comments on the Sarapiqui area birding. I saw your very impressive eBird post on the La Selva entrance road. I am leaning on trying Selva Verde most likely because I have never been there and I love exploring new places. Have you ever driven on the backroads behind either Tirimbina, where the field station is, or Selva Verde? On a Google satellite view, there are roads visible that traverse the partially cleared areas between those two reserves and Brauilo Carrillo's forests. On this trip, we'll have a four wheel drive SUV and we may do some exploring. The location of Magsaysay Lodge (http://www.pozoazul.com/index.html) is the general area I am interested in. From this distance, birding potential looks good. By the way, I enjoyed your recent description of the Nightingale Wren as a "piece of dirt". Liz and I have had them singing just a few feet away and not able to get more than a glimpse. True skulkers. Snow falling here and a high of 33 degrees forecasted. Your blog is better than an armload of firewood!

Steve

Yep, it looks like dirt! Funny little bird.
I think Tirimbina has a lot of potential but yes, why not check out Selva Verde since you haven't been there yet? However, I'm not sure if you mentioned this but, annoyingly, I think they require a guide to go into their forest reserve.
Nevertheless, yes, you can find some excellent birding on roads in that area. There is a road just north of Selva Verde that crosses the Sarapiqui River. If one follows this straight back, it eventually reaches nice forest and goes around behind the back of Selva Verde. Other roads that are behind Tirimbina can also be good. I haven't checked them out too much but on the few times I have been there have found more than 100 species including Sungrebe, Green Ibis, Great Potoo, and many other species.
One place to check is the Bijagual Reserve- havent been there yet but really want to visit.
That said, some of those roads are impassible during wet conditions because they turn into slick clay that is downright dangerous. The clay coats the tires and the vehicle can even slide off the road. I have been in a situation like a couple of times and it was terrifying. 4 wheel drive doesn't help either. If the road has rocks, it is fine. But if it is clay and is wet, it's better to just turn right around and stay on the rocky surface.

I hear you on paying the same amount per person. I don't think that is right, especially because the more people, the less individual attention. Should be less per person.

Yes, there is an easy-going attitude about time, etc. in Costa Rica but not as much when it comes to tours, and especially birding tours. No excuse for late starts there!

 

[Hamhed]

I think Tirimbina has a lot of potential but yes, why not check out Selva Verde since you haven't been there yet? However, I'm not sure if you mentioned this but, annoyingly, I think they require a guide to go into their forest reserve.

Selva Verde's answer by email (which I will print and bring with me):
If you take lunch with us, the price for the hike is $10 per person, so the total is $26 per person: lunch and selfguided hike (you decide the time for the hike). I'm hoping they stick to this.

Nevertheless, yes, you can find some excellent birding on roads in that area. There is a road just north of Selva Verde that crosses the Sarapiqui River. If one follows this straight back, it eventually reaches nice forest and goes around behind the back of Selva Verde.

That's exactly the road I was refering to. It appears to cut through the back of the Selva Verde forest. My Mom and her sister can only access forest area if we can drive to it. Their mobility is limited as mine will likely be if I ever reach my mid 80's.

Other roads that are behind Tirimbina can also be good. I haven't checked them out too much but on the few times I have been there have found more than 100 species including Sungrebe, Green Ibis, Great Potoo, and many other species.

Liz and I hiked through the Tirimbina forest, getting a little lost at times, to the Field Station on the back edge of the property. It looked like a nice place to stay. No highway noise, probably lack of crowds and immediate access to both forest and open areas. Lots of porterweed planted around the buildings. Deep covered porch and I think a full kitchen.

One place to check is the Bijagual Reserve- havent been there yet but really want to visit.
That said, some of those roads are impassible during wet conditions because they turn into slick clay that is downright dangerous. The clay coats the tires and the vehicle can even slide off the road. I have been in a situation like a couple of times and it was terrifying. 4 wheel drive doesn't help either. If the road has rocks, it is fine. But if it is clay and is wet, it's better to just turn right around and stay on the rocky surface.

I had imagined the roads could be tough when wet but didn't know about the clay base. Is this Bijagual Reserve generally near to Jose Miranda's place, Alberque del Socorro? It looks interesting. At $18 a night, I'm guessing no hot showers and no breakfast! Their 17km of trails might take more than a day to cover.

I hear you on paying the same amount per person. I don't think that is right, especially because the more people, the less individual attention. Should be less per person.

To be honest, Patrick, I didn't expect to ruffle your feathers as a guide since mutiple times in the past you have worked with us to come up with a reasonable fee for your services. It is not just a Costa Rica thing either. The idea of charging per person is done often here in the US also.

Steve
(Had a heck of a time trying to post an answer to this. Some gremlins in my computer or Birdforum's.)

 

[tapaculo]

Not too much time now but, to answer Hamhed's question, we did OK on our own at LS (3 of us, with some experience in the neotropics), also balking at the price of $50 each. But their guides really know their stuff, all the calls, etc., and I'm sure we missed stuff. (I cleverly did one a favor, altering him to a Snowy. Cotinga over the football pitch, so was able to tag along a little.) They also do the intro tour. So it probably is worth it to grit your teeth and pay. Conversely, at Bosque de Paz, the price is $32 and the young guide is a great kid, but of little help to anyone decent birder who know something about these species. Beginners are very happy with him, though...

 

[Les Shulman]

Just an update of additional information about the early morning bird walks at Tirimbina and Selva Verde-no new information regarding La Selva as their 5:45AM 2 hour guided group walk remains $50.

Tirimbina's guided group bird walk ($28) starts at 6AM, includes a continental breakfast, and lasts 3 hours.
If one participates in that walk they have access to all of the trails for the rest of the day for no additional charge. The cost for the self-guided walk only is still $17 and can begin no earlier than 7AM.

Selva Verde's guided group bird walk ($27) in their primary forest is from 6AM-8AM. After that one has access (with no time limit) to their property's grounds except for the primary forest for no additional fee. With no requirement to eat lunch there, the cost for a unlimited time-wise self-guided walk, once again with no access beyond the bridge, is $10.