Tips and advice for flight shots ,please (1 Viewer)

[christineredgate]

I see some absolutely stunning shots on the Gallery of birds in flight.I can sit,surrounded by flying birds,and cannot manage a decent flight shot.Is there any special camera setting(300/20d,100-400 lens)which one needs to use.I usually use the P or AV mode.Does one try to photo the bird as it approaches.How does one aim at the sky and try to keep the bird in focus?.One sees flocks of birds flying overhead,but by the time one has pointed and tried to focus,the birds have gone.It is perhaps better to use the several shots at once mode,as opposed to a single shot.The main reason I would like to improve in this area,is that last year I sat watching the Terns returning from the sea carrying the fish for their chicks,they were passing overhead several at a time ,but I did not manage to obtain a single clear shot,it was very dissappointing.So,please,any simple tips would be very much appreciated.
Thankyou,Christine.

 

[rezMole]

I set camera speed to 1/500th and follow the bird. Try keep AutoFocus set on "Continuous" - sometimes you lose focus, but not always. Then just keep shooting and hope! I can do 4 frames a second shooting RAW files, which is usually ample.

It's not easy when you are at 500mm, but depneds on how far away you are. Best not to try to fill the frame - you'll ned up with loads of pictures of birds with bits missing. You can always crop later.

 

[Kevin Bates]

Its practise Christine, my main subject is fast jets so birds are a little easier. You need a high shutter speed and if your using a Canon DSLR then use AI servo mode and continuos shooting. The more images you take the better likelyhood one will be in focus. Set your iso to 400 which will help keep your shutter speed up and you also need a lens with fast autofocus.

Oh yes I nearly forgot set the focus to centre focus only.

 

[christineredgate]

Thanks,Kevin and Rezmole.Do not think I have used A1servo mode,will have to find it on the cam.So if I set to 400 iso,does that mean the shutter speed will auto go to 1/500.I do know how to change the ISO speed ,but did not realise it changes the shutter speed.

 

[rezMole]

Higher ISO gives faster shutter speed at same aperture. EG at F6.3 ISO 50 you may get 1/250th sec. Move to ISO 100, and shutter speed will be 1/500th. ISO 200 gives 1/100th etc. Providing f stop is the same.

Using auto is not really sensible as you lose control - the camera "thinks" it knows what to do - but that isn't always what you want it to do!

Only problem with setting a higher ISO is that you'll get more "noise", but that can be cleared up if it gets too bad (using something like NeatImage). Shouldn't really be a problem unless you go past ISO400. I often use ISO800 - and sometimes even higher if i need to!

 

[christineredgate]

Thanks,Rezmole.No I do not use auto mode,usually P or A,but I only set the ISO according to the light,and let the camera do the rest.But just wondered if for flight shots one did need to use any specific settings.

 

[rezMole]

Is "P" not auto mode? I have a Canon A1, and "P" on that stands for "program" mode - in which the camera set both shutter AND aperture. "A" mode will be aperture priority, in which you set aperture and the camera picks the shutter speed. I tend to use shutter priority and let the camera set the aperture. Sometimes i end up with an underexposed shot - but that is easier to live with that a blurred image.

If you use a higher ISO, you'll get either a faster shutter speed or a smaller aperture (which will give you larger depth of field - ie more of the picture will be in focus).

 

[samuel walker]

Pretty much the same deal for me Christine.My finepix fugi has shutter priority mode which shoots it a little faster than full auto.If I think there is a chance of a wing shot I switch to burst mode which loads me five frames for 4 seconds.It takes about 6 seconds to write to the card locking out the option until wtitten.After those 5 are on the card the cam gives me another 5 frames.The feature works well if the bird turns back or the mate lifts off behind the first subject.The real test is trying to figure out when the bird is going to go off.I can't find a way to predict when the action will happen.I tend to practice a lot on easy targets like Canada goose and gulls that are usually active and available.These outings are for my reflex conditioning.
Sam

 

[DOC]

After a lot of practice ( and still learning ) i find that taking in-flight shots are best done with the much higher shutter speeds .
I use the D-70 at 2 options for those shots:
1- shutter priority- i set the iso at 400 at least, continous focus mode, multi-frame shot ( 3fps etc ) ,spot metering and shutter speed at 1/1000 or 1/2000 sec. when shooting at the sky i add EV+1 to brighten the bird against the sky and sometimes i take the WB to -2 ( set at auto WB).
2- P mode - this mode actually gives you automatic selection of aperture+ shutter but you can change the aperture and thus the shutter will change also. This enables you to take the same picture with different apertures and get different DOF's.
AS for the sharpness: well - at very high shutter speeds - you can afford even hand held long lenses but i preffer my lens on a bean bag or tripod.
( i usually sit in the car with the camera on the window sill with a bag )- Lately i have started photographing with a 500 m"M lens- which makes hand holding almost impossible.
BTW- i take hundreds of shots every time i go photographing, and later i filter the good ones .

Here are some examples:
http://www.birdforum.net/pp_gallery/showphoto.php/photo/42578/sort/1/cat/500/page/1http://www.birdforum.net/pp_gallery/showphoto.php/photo/39523/sort/1/cat/500/page/2
http://www.birdforum.net/pp_gallery/showphoto.php/photo/37689/sort/1/cat/
500/page/2
Hope i helped a bit.

 

[Kevin Bates]

You have a 300D Christine so unfortuneatly you cannot select AI servo unless you use sports mode. In sports mode the iso will be set at 400 and AI servo will be on as well as continuos shooting. Give sports mode a go and see how you get on. There is a hack for the 300D called Wasia Hack that will enable AI servo in other modes but I don't advise you to apply this hack unless you know about updating cameras firmware.

There are plenty of high speed images of aircraft and birds at www.kevin-bates.co.uk with exif information that will show what settings I used for that particular photograph.

If your lens is the Canon 100-400 IS use mode 2 or switch it off.

 

[citrinella]

Hi Christine,

You also say you have a 20D, but that you prefer the 300D for birds. I have a 300D, but not a 20D and my chief reason for wanting a 20D is to cope with birds - especially in flight.

Yes, you probably need to use burst mode. The 20D will do this a "million" times better than the 300D. Indeed, if you use RAW, the 300D will virtually not work in burst.

AI Servo is available on the 20D.

The information given on the A1 applies to the 300D - "P" is fully automatic. I, like you, tend to use Av - aperture priority and choose an aperture to give appropriate depth of field. While that might allow you to maximise depth of field by shutting down the aperture, that might lead to blur from movement except in very good light. Try Tv - shutter priority - and select a high shutter speed.

Focal length - can you get in a closer position where you can use a shorter focal length ? This is always a huge advantage, not just because the bigger magnification exagerates all movements, but also because you reduce the chances of bad air distorting the image. On a warm day this can be very noticeable even at short range over some surfaces, like stones. I guess you won't be shooting over tarmac, but think in those terms and you will know what I mean.

Focussing - you have two possible focussing strategies :
1. set your lens to manual focus, focus in advance on where you expect the bird to be and try to release the shutter as it passes thriugh that point. Using the burst mode gives another way of achieving this. However, I know a guy who gets stunning results using single shot, but he has a defined flight path to a feeder and keeps on trying and I think his rejection rate is 90% plus.

2. Use autofocus - which really means the 20D because the 300D is far too slow to react.

Image stabilisation - have you got IS switched off ? If not, that is what the book says for moving subjects, so I'd guess it's worth a try.

If you end up with under-exposed shots from pushing the shutter speed up to get rid of movement, and shutting down the aperture to get improved depth of field, don't despair ! Try auto levels etc in Photoshop.

Above all, keep trying, never give up. Study your failures - can you tell if lack of sharpness is due to focus (even blur), subject movement (smear) or shake (look for smear that runs counter to the subject's movement) ? If it's focus, think about Av again, if it's movement, you want a higher shutter speed. Noise is pehaps due to too high ISO - you may just have to tolerate that at the shooting stage. "Everybody" seems to think Canons are pretty good in this respect anyway.

Good luck
Mike.

 

[madmike]

BIF problems

Hi Christine,
Seems like you have received loads of help, but one thing you may not appreciate is that generally when shooting skywards you will need to allow for a brighter background. This means that you will need to OVER expose by at least one stop, sometimes more! On my canon D10 this is quite easy to set, but I'm not sure about the D300 - just be glad that you have digital now, and don't have to waste zillions of pounds worth of film (and silver)!!

Good luck,

Mike

 

[paul goode]

You have a 300D Christine so unfortuneatly you cannot select AI servo unless you use sports mode. In sports mode the iso will be set at 400 and AI servo will be on as well as continuos shooting. Give sports mode a go and see how you get on. There is a hack for the 300D called Wasia Hack that will enable AI servo in other modes but I don't advise you to apply this hack unless you know about updating cameras firmware.

There are plenty of high speed images of aircraft and birds at www.kevin-bates.co.uk with exif information that will show what settings I used for that particular photograph.

Even with the Wasia hack firmware installed A1 servo does not work on the 300D. The focusing system works but you cannot take a picture because the shutter will not work when the button is pressed.

 

[Kevin Bates]

I took this one today

http://www.birdforum.net/pp_gallery/data/527/1857123Apr05194_Greylag.jpg

 

[christineredgate]

Gosh,thanks everyone.Looks as though I will have to practise with different settings,but perhaps the gist of this is,to use the P mode for flight shots,I always used to use this setting,then someone said the A setting was the best,for general use with the 100-400 lens.I don't really see a great deal of difference between the two.But many thanks for all the info,I will at a later date,print off your suggestions ,and practise.Kevin,I have only just made it to the Forum at this late hour,but will find your pic on the Gallery.
Again,everyone ,a big thankyou.Just wish my brain was 20 yrs younger to take in all this info!!!

 

[christineredgate]

Kevin ,just seen your shot,so perfect.Thankyou.

 

[adrianf]

Hi all. I just spotted this thread after just after I worked out a fairly neat method yesterday which, as they say, "worked for me".
I have a 300D and Sigma 50-500.
Firstly I set the camera into “sport” mode where it tries to capture a moving object and track it. Then I put the lens into manual focus. This sounds odd but there is a good reason: if the camera has not already “locked on” then the focus system will “hunt”, often getting it completely wrong. I then set the focus manually to the approximate distance of the bird - near infinity, more often than not.
Then, scanning around, I try to get the bird in shot and only then flick the button back onto autofocus. With a bit of luck the camera will then “lock on” and it is then up to the skill of the photographer to track the bird’s flightpath and press the shutter. The distant Sand Martin record pics I took yesterday on my website were taken using this method. I was amazed that the camera managed to lock on to these at all as they were distant, it was going dark and they moving quickly (as they do) - all in all I reckon it’s a testimony to the Canon autofocus system.

 

[christineredgate]

Thanks,Adrian,will give your way a try,also will try the 20d in the mode suggested.I have not used either of these modes on these cameras.But the only thing is,one has no time to sort out all these settings,as the birds are flying over,and one has to be really quick.But many thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread,I will keep coming back to check out the various options(after Easter and the house guests have gone home!!!)

 

[Saphire]

Even with the Wasia hack firmware installed A1 servo does not work on the 300D. The focusing system works but you cannot take a picture because the shutter will not work when the button is pressed.

Just to let you know there is a new hack Undutchable this allows A1 servo with a bit of a stretch with the thumb, but it works.

 

[christineredgate]

Thanks,Christine.I am going to have a try with the 20d,once I have read the manual to sort out this A1 servo.But will also try the sports mode with the 300d.I prefer to just keep the 300 with the 100-400 lens attached,as I have problems changing lenses,so just keep the 20 for landscapes,macro and people etc.This is why I bought a second hand 300d.To drop one lens or cam whilst changing lenses out of doors,could be much more costly than the used 300d cost.Also I am used to the 300 settings.