Gambia from the beginning! (1 Viewer)

[O.Reville1989]

Hey all,
I have done a fair amount of birding in Europe but recently the idea of The Gambia was presented to me by a friend.
Whenever I bird in Europe I prepare the trip myself finding out info on the sites to visit etc and it all (generally) runs smoothly.
But having never been to Africa let alone The Gambia before any pointers would be great.
Things such as: Are guides necessary? Injections needed? Precautions? things to plan before going, etc etc.
Appreciate this is quite different to hopping across to Spain for birding so looking to find out as much info as possible before hopefully going at the end of 2013 or start of 2014.
Any help appreciated.
Oli

 

[Padraig]

Hi Oli,

i've just come back from my first visit to The Gambia...read about it in the thread 'Back from The Gambia'.
Can I recommend a birding trip there. The answer is a definite 'yes'. Quite simply,I found it was the best birding holiday I have ever had, and I'm sure alot of BF members would second that.
Yes, one should hire a guide, I believe. I know one or two people believe otherwise, and I respect their opinion but think guides really get you quickly acquainted with what's what. It also cuts down on hassle by people who want you to sponsor them for doing nothing. There is a strong code of conduct amongst most Gambians, and once they know that you have booked your guide, they leave you alone
I can recommend a guide and taxi driver if you're interested.

I suggest spending the first couple of days could be spent acclimatising and mooching about with bins to get your eye in, before hiring a guide.
There is a whole thread 'yellow fever' about the pros and cons of YF vaccination. Well worth reading to make up your own mind.
Another question: 'should I bring my scope?' I'd say 'definitely' to that. Good for water birds, owls in tops of tress and birds out on the savannah.
But overall, yes do consider a trip to The Gambia. You won't regret it, unless you get Yellow Fever :-O

Padraig

 

[O.Reville1989]

Hi Oli,

i've just come back from my first visit to The Gambia...read about it in the thread 'Back from The Gambia'.
Can I recommend a birding trip there. The answer is a definite 'yes'. Quite simply,I found it was the best birding holiday I have ever had, and I'm sure alot of BF members would second that.
Yes, one should hire a guide, I believe. I know one or two people believe otherwise, and I respect their opinion but think guides really get you quickly acquainted with what's what. It also cuts down on hassle by people who want you to sponsor them for doing nothing. There is a strong code of conduct amongst most Gambians, and once they know that you have booked your guide, they leave you alone
I can recommend a guide and taxi driver if you're interested.

I suggest spending the first couple of days could be spent acclimatising and mooching about with bins to get your eye in, before hiring a guide.
There is a whole thread 'yellow fever' about the pros and cons of YF vaccination. Well worth reading to make up your own mind.
Another question: 'should I bring my scope?' I'd say 'definitely' to that. Good for water birds, owls in tops of tress and birds out on the savannah.
But overall, yes do consider a trip to The Gambia. You won't regret it, unless you get Yellow Fever :-O

Padraig

Thanks Padraig! Great information.
Its a really tempting country, a friend has now suggested Kenya as well so its a real toss up between the two.
Any recommendations and prices you can send me would be great, just so I get a rough idea of what a trip to Gambia would cost me.
Cheers
Oli

 

[Padraig]

Hi Oli,

A Thomas Cook package cost us £550 each . We stayed at the Senegambia Hotel, which I can recommend thoroughly because the gardens got me easi;y 15 birds in my first afternoon in the gardens plus another 15 over the rest of the week. alot of the birds were seen from my recliner at the top pool (avoid the bottom pool if you go there....its for people who don't know how to enjoy themselves...they do exist!).
I never strayed more than 10 miles from the coast but got 177 species in the week. Had I gone to the river, I'm told I could have got 250 without too much bother.

can't advise about Gambia V Kenya. Haven't been to the latter but hope to one day.
I'd imagine you'd have to travel around to get the quantity of species that you easily pick up in TG.

Just some thoughts. Guides cost £50-60 per half day, less if you're in a couple/group.

Padaig

 

[O.Reville1989]

Hi Oli,

A Thomas Cook package cost us £550 each . We stayed at the Senegambia Hotel, which I can recommend thoroughly because the gardens got me easi;y 15 birds in my first afternoon in the gardens plus another 15 over the rest of the week. alot of the birds were seen from my recliner at the top pool (avoid the bottom pool if you go there....its for people who don't know how to enjoy themselves...they do exist!).
I never strayed more than 10 miles from the coast but got 177 species in the week. Had I gone to the river, I'm told I could have got 250 without too much bother.

can't advise about Gambia V Kenya. Haven't been to the latter but hope to one day.
I'd imagine you'd have to travel around to get the quantity of species that you easily pick up in TG.

Just some thoughts. Guides cost £50-60 per half day, less if you're in a couple/group.

Padaig

Hi Padaig,
Thanks for the reply. 177 species in a week sounds good to me. Truth is I wouldn't be going to see as much as possible in as short a time, more to photograph the birds I can to the best of my ability and sacrifice a big list to see some of the really fascinating species.
Over the week did you find sites where a guide wouldn't be necessary? £50 per half day over a week is going to add up!
Thanks
Oli

 

[trw]

Its a brilliant destination for birdwatching.

Using guides is a personal choice.

At home I do a lot of solo birdwatching.Part of the joy is finding solitude,finding my own birds and being in wonderful natural environments.
So I didn't use any guides and had a wonderful holiday.
I was a bit fearful of the hassle but after spending 3 Spring holidays in Morocco the Gambian hasslers were chicken feed compared to their Arab counterparts.
Anyone who has been to Morocco will know what I mean.

I'm not a big hitter when it comes to listing but I was seeing new lifers every day without any effort whatsoever.

Getting around is easy.I just used the green taxis which included a 2 hour waiting time.They are not exactly cheap but if you share the costs between 2,3 or 4 people the costs come down.

I chose to stay at the Sheraton Hotel in Brufut.

It was within walking distance of 2 brilliant reserves and it had over 50 species within the grounds or adjacent to it.

There were a few photographers there during my stay.

As for inoculations go with whatever your GP says if you want to be sure.
I personally don't.We just took the malaria pills which cost about £4.50 for a week's supply.

Give it a go.I'm sure you won't regret it.

 

[O.Reville1989]

Its a brilliant destination for birdwatching.

Using guides is a personal choice.

At home I do a lot of solo birdwatching.Part of the joy is finding solitude,finding my own birds and being in wonderful natural environments.
So I didn't use any guides and had a wonderful holiday.
I was a bit fearful of the hassle but after spending 3 Spring holidays in Morocco the Gambian hasslers were chicken feed compared to their Arab counterparts.
Anyone who has been to Morocco will know what I mean.

I'm not a big hitter when it comes to listing but I was seeing new lifers every day without any effort whatsoever.

Getting around is easy.I just used the green taxis which included a 2 hour waiting time.They are not exactly cheap but if you share the costs between 2,3 or 4 people the costs come down.

I chose to stay at the Sheraton Hotel in Brufut.

It was within walking distance of 2 brilliant reserves and it had over 50 species within the grounds or adjacent to it.

There were a few photographers there during my stay.

As for inoculations go with whatever your GP says if you want to be sure.
I personally don't.We just took the malaria pills which cost about £4.50 for a week's supply.

Give it a go.I'm sure you won't regret it.

Thanks for the reply! Really informative.
I've never been to Africa before, hense my nerves I guess, but its a country i've wanted to visit for many years.
If the hastle isn't too bad then thats good to hear. The trip, for me, would be about the photography than seeing as many birds as possible.
I can always balance the trip out by having a few guided days further into Gambia then doing my own thing nearer the hotel.
Thanks for advice, hopefully got a couple of people to go with now as well which is great

 

[Padraig]

Hi Padaig,

Over the week did you find sites where a guide wouldn't be necessary? £50 per half day over a week is going to add up!
Thanks
Oli

The answer to this Oli is 'yes', you can bird and photograph easily without spending money.
You fly to Banjul, the capital city. In reality, Banjul is the 'downtown' part of a big sprawl and is by the river. South along the coast, still part of the sprawl is Kololi, where most tourists stay.
We stayed at the Seregambia, which has great gardens where you can easily photograph different colourful birds such as Red Billed Hornbill, Yellow Criwned Gonolek, White Crowned Robin-Chat, 3 species of Glossy Starling.
A 50 minute walk along the beach brings you to Kotu Bridge, good for water birds. The adjacent rice fields have good birds as does the 'Bicycle Path'.

You will get approached, repeatedly, by people wanting to be your guide. Most will not be birders, but at Kotu Bridge some will be.

An alternative, much recommended by Pratincole, is to stay at the Sheraton.
I found the gardens disappointing compared to the Senegambia, but you can walk to Brufut Woods (about 30-45 minutes) and Tanji, 2 good birding spots.
Beware the heat!

If you can withstand the pressure of guys touting for business, the you should have a great time. People are friendly. Most are poor, and tourists are the only source of revenue for many. Its understandable that they flock towards tourists, but it can also be unpleasant. Don't let it spoil your holiday though.
The Gambia is the best birding country I've been to.
i managed some nice photos too, and I don't even consider myself a photographer!
i might post a few, once I figure out how to.

padraig

 

[trw]

Interesting you say its the best country you have been to for birdwatching Padraig.
I thought you would love the birdwatching and I'm glad you weren't disappointed.
The reason I chose the Sheraton was becuause of its isolated position I guessed[rightly] it wouldn't be geared up for the hassle brigade.
So when I walked out of the hotel along the road to Tanji or Brufut not one person ever stopped me.The locals were just getting on with their lives which didn't revolve around preying on tourists.
When I walked along the beach south there were only 3 beach bars between the hotel and Tanji lagoons[a 45 minute walk].
After a couple of days the little hassle I had from the beach bar owners lessened.By the end of the week there was no hassle at all.
I could also by pass the first two beach bars by walking along the cliff.
So as I say the hassle was not even a factor in the holiday.
By the way Padraig did you see a Brubru,White Shouldered Black Tit and a Heuglin's Masked Weaver?
I only saw one of each species so I wasn't sure if they were common or not.

 

[Padraig]

Interesting you say its the best country you have been to for birdwatching Padraig.
By the way Padraig did you see a Brubru,White Shouldered Black Tit and a Heuglin's Masked Weaver?
I only saw one of each species so I wasn't sure if they were common or not.

I got 2 of the 3 you mention Pratincole: I'm about to write up my last day's birding in Tujerig, where we saw Brubru and Whiteshouldered Tit. Didn't see Heuglin's Weaver.
The first 2 are not rare, according to the book (Brubru is common in Savannah), but I reckon they're good birds to find on your own. Mine were both pointed out by the guide. Where did you see all three?

For an intrepid, find-your-own-birds birder like yourself ( I do prefer IDing my own birds myself as well), the Sheraton must have been ideal.
I wasn't so lucky on my 1 trip there. I walked along the cliffs south of the hotel, and got some new ticks. On the way back, I looked down at the beach and saw a guy hurrying along to the last beach stall and felt I had been spotted.
I was trying to get a photo of a Black-headed Plover (which was proving difficult because of intense heat haze), when a guy came out of nowhere shouting the usual questions: 'where are you from?', 'that must be very different from The Gambia'. I reckoned the man on the beach had phoned up to this guy on top and felt bad about pointing out that I was birdwatching and wanted to be left alone, but I was feeling hot and irritable.
Glad you were able to bird without hassle around there.
I certainly agree that the level of hassle is way lower than in Northern African countries like Morocco.

Padraig

 

[MSA]

Tujering was my favourite site on my first Gambia trip, and I too saw Brubru and WS Black Tit there - must be a good spot for them.

Did you mention in one of your posts that you were from Bournemouth, Padraig, despite the Devon tag in your location? Do you get down to Christchurch Harbour much? If so, we've probably bumped into each other....

 

[trw]

I got 2 of the 3 you mention Pratincole: I'm about to write up my last day's birding in Tujerig, where we saw Brubru and Whiteshouldered Tit. Didn't see Heuglin's Weaver.
The first 2 are not rare, according to the book (Brubru is common in Savannah), but I reckon they're good birds to find on your own. Mine were both pointed out by the guide. Where did you see all three?

I saw the White Shouldered Tit in the Tanji Forest reserve on the east side of the main road.By the 3rd day I was used to the familiar sounding birds when I heard a new sound.I followed the sound and eventually caught sight of the birds in some trees.
The Brubru was near the mosque in Tanji Forest.
This area, above all I visited in Gambia, was the most densly packed with birds.
I got used to seeing tens of birds in various locations but this area took the biscuit.
In the same clump of shrubs there were an African Paradise Flycatcher and a Red Bellied Paradise Flycatcher.
A red letter day for me.
Reading bird reports I don't think this area gets the coverage it deserves.
Ditto the Paradise Beach lagoons which doesn't seem to be covered at all.
I saw the Heuglin's Masked Weaver near there.
If you ever go back to Gambia I would recommend both areas.
As I said before the scrub area to the north of the Sheraton reception area is the most productive birdwatching area.
Next to the above mentioned mosque area in Tanji it was the most numerously productive birdwatching area.
I learnt a trick walking along the Sheraton Cliffs.
Walk just far away enough from the edge of the cliff so the beach bumsters can't spot you.
By the time I had descended the cliff the was only one more beach bar hassler to negociate on my way to the Tanji Lagoons!It worked a treat.
Not sure if I mentioned the Dona Sylvia in South Goa.Now that is a great birdwatching hotel.
Goa was a close second to Gambia but I agree Gambia is probably one of the best countries you can go to for birdwatching.

 

[Padraig]

Did you mention in one of your posts that you were from Bournemouth, Padraig, despite the Devon tag in your location? Do you get down to Christchurch Harbour much? If so, we've probably bumped into each other....

Well spotted MSA. I lived in Devon until 2009, when I moved over here.
There was a long time between 2005 and 2011, when I didn't sign into Bird Forum. No, I don't get over to Christchurch harbour often. I'm more often over on the west side of Poole Harbour.

Pratincole:
I didn't get to Tanji Woods, but I was aware of your enthusiasm for it while I was there. Nest time, I'll hire a green Taxi and take myself over there.

Padraig.

 

[O.Reville1989]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Very appreciated.

 

[trw]

Hope you eventually go.Its brilliant.
Other easy to get to places out of Europe-
Goa.
The Dona Sylvia,Cavellosim in South Goa is wonderful for birds.The only problem is getting a visa which is a pain and now costs about £112 each including photos,postage etc.
There is no hassle whatsoever in Cavellosim.
The Dominican Republic.Its very similar to the Gambia.The birds are 'in your face'.Lots of reasonable package dealst to the DR.
Antigua- some great birdwatching especially around McKinnons Pools in the north west.
Cuba.I'll reserve judgement until I've been[going in 3 weeks].If it is anything like the DR and Antigua I'll be well pleased
Morocco-Top birdwatching destination.
The beauty of Morocco is that the roads between Agadir and Ourzazate are virtually empty and straight [they were built by the French].So driving is not as stressful as you might think.
Short flight.
On the downside the hassle is worse than Gambia but manageable if you handle it correctly.
EgyptI had a surprisingly good birdwatching holiday in Dahab last August.
No hassle and a short flight.
Going out of Europe is wonderful.Lifers every day!
I make an effort to leave the environs of Europe at least once a year on the basis I'm only going around the block once and life is too short not to do so.

 

[njlarsen]

pratincol, you need to look into the other Lesser Antillean islands and into Trinidad and Tobago, start for example with http://www.birdforum.net/opus/Asa_Wright

Niels

 

[Robin Edwards]

Thanks for the reply! Really informative.
I've never been to Africa before, hense my nerves I guess, but its a country i've wanted to visit for many years.
If the hastle isn't too bad then thats good to hear. The trip, for me, would be about the photography than seeing as many birds as possible.
I can always balance the trip out by having a few guided days further into Gambia then doing my own thing nearer the hotel.
Thanks for advice, hopefully got a couple of people to go with now as well which is great

If you fancy Africa and like some photographic opportunities of some of the birds you will see, I would recommend giving Ethiopia a try. Perhaps more expensive on face value compared with The Gambia but very little expenditure once you're there assuming you want to be taken care of by a local guide & driver.

I have visited the Gambia and thoroughly enjoyed it but having just recently visited Ethiopia, I think the latter has more to offer, not surprisingly that it's such a huge country. Expect 300+ species in a week including some you would expect to see in The Gambia, but many you wont.

On the other hand, The Gambia is much easier to do as a "cheap" break if you just want to relax and find a few birds for yourself and not incur much travelling. I easily racked up spending a few hundred extra pounds on local guides at £40-£50 a half day if I recall.

 

[O.Reville1989]

If you fancy Africa and like some photographic opportunities of some of the birds you will see, I would recommend giving Ethiopia a try. Perhaps more expensive on face value compared with The Gambia but very little expenditure once you're there assuming you want to be taken care of by a local guide & driver.

I have visited the Gambia and thoroughly enjoyed it but having just recently visited Ethiopia, I think the latter has more to offer, not surprisingly that it's such a huge country. Expect 300+ species in a week including some you would expect to see in The Gambia, but many you wont.

On the other hand, The Gambia is much easier to do as a "cheap" break if you just want to relax and find a few birds for yourself and not incur much travelling. I easily racked up spending a few hundred extra pounds on local guides at £40-£50 a half day if I recall.

Thanks Robin, another country for the long term list.
I think Gambia is a good starting point before trying further into Africa (South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia etc).
I've got some friends keen as well so fingers crossed this goes ahead in either November 2013 or January 2014. Very excited to say the least.

Thanks to all those who have posted up to now.