scope for a nikon D5000 (1 Viewer)

scolopaxminor · May 17, 2011

Hey all,

I have a Nikon D5000 with a 200mm lens... it gets the job done but I teach biology and would like to use photos in my classroom and just cant get the photos I want unless the birds are 15 yards or less. What do you recommend with a D500? I am used to using the cam, but i am totally new to 'digiscoping'. I would like any and all info on mountings and scopes that you like. I want a qulaity product... but a 25 year old bio teacher has some limited funds ha. Thanks for the input!

RJM · May 17, 2011

Scope, dslr camera adaptor and tripod will cost north of $1000 at a minimum. Might be better off with a Sigma 150-500 zoom that you can still shoot handheld.

Jason Bugay Reyes · May 17, 2011

Depending with your budget to get quality scope for Digiscoping. If you wanted to connect your D5000 on the scope, either you get the DSLR Photo Adapter made by Nikon, Kowa or Swarovski or by using the scope's eyepiece with step up rings and etc.

Or get a compact camera with less than 4x optical zoom and Digiscoping adapter with scope and eyepiece

Hor Kee · May 17, 2011

If you have the ED series of Nikon fieldscope (not the newer EDG series), there is an affordable adapter for your camera. See this link http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-Camera-Attachment-Fieldscopes-7468-/380309812627.

Tord · May 18, 2011

Hor Kee said:
If you have the ED series of Nikon fieldscope (not the newer EDG series), there is an affordable adapter for your camera. See this link http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-Camera-Attachment-Fieldscopes-7468-/380309812627.

Hi,
Is this a copy (or second source) to the Nikon FSA-1? How is the IQ compared to the original Nikon?
BR
/Tord

RJM · May 18, 2011

No, the Nikon #7468 is the original 800mm camera adapter that PRECEEDED the FSA-L1 intended for 35mm SLRs. The advantage of the FSA-L1 is that it has a switch that somehow passes aperture/focal length values to the camera. This allows you to shoot in Aperture Priority mode (instead of full manual) and maybe more importantly, use Exposure Compensation with a fieldscope lens. This is a BIG advantage over having to shoot FULL MANUAL.

Nikon cameras like the D300/300s and the new D7000 also allow you to program aperture values for non-reporting lenses too so this could be a cheaper alternative to the FSA-L1. I doubt there would be a significant IQ difference.

Tord · May 19, 2011

RJM said:
No, the Nikon #7468 is the original 800mm camera adapter that PRECEEDED the FSA-L1 intended for 35mm SLRs. The advantage of the FSA-L1 is that it has a switch that somehow passes aperture/focal length values to the camera. This allows you to shoot in Aperture Priority mode (instead of full manual) and maybe more importantly, use Exposure Compensation with a fieldscope lens. This is a BIG advantage over having to shoot FULL MANUAL.

Nikon cameras like the D300/300s and the new D7000 also allow you to program aperture values for non-reporting lenses too so this could be a cheaper alternative to the FSA-L1. I doubt there would be a significant IQ difference.

Hi again,

Thanks for sharing this knowledge. I suppose you mean that this feature allows you to instruct the D7000 camera that the lens used has e.g. F12.8 (fixed), and the camera will be able to adjust shutter speed in aperture priority mode. If that is the case, is exposure compensation also possible to use?

If not, A-priority would be a feature with limited value allowing you to set a baseline for exposure, but subsequent exposure compensation requires you to adjust shutter speed meaning you would need to switch to manual mode.

Am I right?

BR
Tord

Hor Kee · May 19, 2011

And, just as importantly, use a remote shutter release (I found cable releases to be more reliable as there is no lag compared to IR ones). Mirror lock-up is also a must as to minimize vibrations. The D5000 (and its successor the D5100) have the advantage of a flip screen too.

So far I've found manual input into a DSLR sufficient for reasonable shots to be taken through a spotting scope using the above DSLR adapters. In fact, I connect a Canon EOS 600D by using an adapter to the attachment I have (the 7468) and have been able to take sharp shots at ISO800 or ISO1600 with the above technique, using Canon's Av (aperture-priority) mode. I'm using an older Nikon ED78 scope. Will try this combo on the moon tonight!

A red dot sight may be desirable to facilitate aiming your scope, especially if it is an angled one. For instance, see this interesting setup here http://www.scopesnskies.com/prod/Sc...ssories/finder/spottingscope-led-red-dot.html.

Do bear in mind that this setup results in a very long lens-camera combo. A gimbal tripod head would be good.

Tord · Jun 7, 2011

Hor Kee said:
And, just as importantly, use a remote shutter release (I found cable releases to be more reliable as there is no lag compared to IR ones). Mirror lock-up is also a must as to minimize vibrations. The D5000 (and its successor the D5100) have the advantage of a flip screen too.

So far I've found manual input into a DSLR sufficient for reasonable shots to be taken through a spotting scope using the above DSLR adapters. In fact, I connect a Canon EOS 600D by using an adapter to the attachment I have (the 7468) and have been able to take sharp shots at ISO800 or ISO1600 with the above technique, using Canon's Av (aperture-priority) mode. I'm using an older Nikon ED78 scope. Will try this combo on the moon tonight!

A red dot sight may be desirable to facilitate aiming your scope, especially if it is an angled one. For instance, see this interesting setup here http://www.scopesnskies.com/prod/Sc...ssories/finder/spottingscope-led-red-dot.html.

Do bear in mind that this setup results in a very long lens-camera combo. A gimbal tripod head would be good.

Hi again

Bumping up this thread.

I purchased a Nikon 7468 and a Nikon F-mount/Four Third adapter (I use Olympus gear). Received the bits and pieces today and mounted my E520 on my ED82A. Wheater was overcast, there was some wind, anyhow I took some shots in the backyard.

The setup was mounted on a heavy duty Manfrotto tripod. Immediate feedback:
1. The setup behaved OK from a balance point of view (I believe an angled scope helps quite a bit, at the expense of framing the subject being more tricky than with a straight scope).
2. The setup supported not only aperture priority, but also expose compensation

3. Achieving perfect focus is not that easy, the scope has an aperture F12.8 (according to the data sheet).
4. Depth of field is extremely shallow. (Not surprisingly given the 800 mm focal length, rendering 1600 mm equivalent on 35 mm)
5. Release cable is strongly recommended.
6. Color rendering is natural
7. Bokeh is pleasant
8. Chromatic abberation is OK
9. Sharpness is OK. Not pin sharp, though
10. Some contrast is lost

I attach a few samples Please let me know what you think of the IQ. There were no cooperative birds around so I picked a few flowers instead. Distance to subject ~5 meters.

Pictures resized to adhere to the constraints imposed by the forum, no other post-processing done (except converting from RAW to HQ JPEG).

Data:
Sample 1:
ISO 400
1/60 s
0 EV

Sample 2:
ISO 400
1/500 s
-0.7 EV

Sample 3:
ISO 400
1/250 s
-0.7 EV

Hor Kee · Jun 8, 2011

Tord said:
Hi again

Bumping up this thread.

I purchased a Nikon 7468 and a Nikon F-mount/Four Third adapter (I use Olympus gear). Received the bits and pieces today and mounted my E520 on my ED82A. Wheater was overcast, there was some wind, anyhow I took some shots in the backyard.

The setup was mounted on a heavy duty Manfrotto tripod. Immediate feedback:
1. The setup behaved OK from a balance point of view (I believe an angled scope helps quite a bit, at the expense of framing the subject being more tricky than with a straight scope).
2. The setup supported not only aperture priority, but also expose compensation
3. Achieving perfect focus is not that easy, the scope has an aperture F12.8 (according to the data sheet).
4. Depth of field is extremely shallow. (Not surprisingly given the 800 mm focal length, rendering 1600 mm equivalent on 35 mm)
5. Release cable is strongly recommended.
6. Color rendering is natural
7. Bokeh is pleasant
8. Chromatic abberation is OK
9. Sharpness is OK. Not pin sharp, though
10. Some contrast is lost

I attach a few samples Please let me know what you think of the IQ. There were no cooperative birds around so I picked a few flowers instead. Distance to subject ~5 meters.

Pictures resized to adhere to the constraints imposed by the forum, no other post-processing done (except converting from RAW to HQ JPEG).

Data:
Sample 1:
ISO 400
1/60 s
0 EV

Sample 2:
ISO 400
1/500 s
-0.7 EV

Sample 3:
ISO 400
1/250 s
-0.7 EV

Good photos Mr Tord. I agree that there is a trade-off between the extreme telephoto ability of such a setup and picture quality. Here are a few pics of my current setup. Sorry for the small pictures as I've adapted them directly from my Facebook profile!

The first pic is my setup. I use a Nikon ED78 fieldscope, Nikon 7468 adapter (modified to a Canon FD mount years ago), Canon FD-EF adapter, Canon 600D with cable remote release, Wat Krating gimbal head (an excellnt brand from Thailand) on a Manfrotto tripod with red dot sight attached.

Also attached are pictures of a Black-Crowned Night Heron and a Little (or Striated) Heron from my local patch.

Despite the apparent clunkiness of this setup, I'll rather have it than even the best mirror lenses anytime.

One setback is that if one shoots against a harshly-backlit subject, an annoying lens flare appears upon the centre of the image. Perhaps it is caused by the focusing lens within the Nikon 7468 projecting an image upon the FD-EF adapter's mirror (I'm using a cheap China-made one for now but a better mirrorless non-infinity focus one is on its way fro eBay). Do you experience similar problems?

Cheers,

Hor Kee

Tord · Jun 8, 2011

Hi Hor Kee,

Yesterday was overcast with smooth light. I will test my setup when taking pictures against bright light to see if there is any flare as you describe. It will have to wait until sun is back, forecast for next days is overcast. I'll post as soon as I have the opportunity.

I have a question: what exactly do you mean with "mirror" when you write: "I'll rather have it than even the best mirror lenses anytime"
- Mirror lenses (I suppose this is what you mean, also known as catadioptric lenses. )
- Mirror SLR with regular telephoto lens (supposedly in the same price range as the field scope)

If you have a few minutes spare time, can I email you a full resolution JPEG, I'd like to hear your opinion on the IQ and sharpness, if this is as good as can get?

Regards,
/Tord

PS
Nice pics

Hor Kee · Jun 9, 2011

Dear Tord,

Yup, I meant catadioptric lenses. Those are quite disappointing for the 3D world of wildlife photography but a great for the 2D astro photography.

You can email me a [email protected]. I'm just an amateur in DSLRs though. Not too familiar with pixel peeping!

Regards,

Hor Kee

Tord · Jun 14, 2011

Hor Kee said:
Dear Tord,

Yup, I meant catadioptric lenses. Those are quite disappointing for the 3D world of wildlife photography but a great for the 2D astro photography.

You can email me a [email protected]. I'm just an amateur in DSLRs though. Not too familiar with pixel peeping!

Regards,

Hor Kee

Thanks,

Attached to this post are three samples. No post-processing done except converting from Olympus RAW and cropping to fit the size limit imposed by the forum. (Originals are 10 Mpixel).

Shot at ISO 800, 1/50 - 1/60 second, light conditions overcast (EV12 - EV13).

I have emailed you the originals separately.

Appreciate if you could provide feedback on the IQ.

Best Regards,
Tord

Hor Kee · Jun 15, 2011

Mr. Tord,

The contrast of the photos is mediocre and they are slightly out of focus. Did you use live view? Shutter slap is a major factor in ruined DSLR shots through a scope. Amazing though on how much reach you get.

From my rather limited experience of DSLR-digiscoping, the shutter speeds are a bit slow for sharp shots. I've found that you need at least 1/200 for decent photos. To get that, sometimes I have to bump up the ISO to 3200.

Hope this helps, as I have no experience with using Olympus DSLRs and am unable to comment on the quality of their optics.

Tord · Jun 15, 2011

Hor Kee,

Thanks for feedback. Points taken.

Regarding the reach: the horizontal angle of view is approximately 1.1 degrees which would mean a focal length of approximately 1100 mm (four thirds system e.g. Olympus). This would transform into approximately 2200 mm focal length on 35 mm system. Slightest vibration puts pictures at risk of shake blur, and it is possible the shutter or mirror caused this.

I did not use Live View. Should I have?

/Tord

Hor Kee · Jun 30, 2011

Hi Tord,

I have found Live View essential for DSLR-digiscoping. Shutter slap is a major factor in ruined images, especially with non-image stabilization dampening bodies like the Canon EOS series. Your camera's inbuilt image stabilizer should come into handy here but I doubt that it will be able to overcome the vibrations from shutter slap. Your camera's higher crop factor (2x as opposed to my 1.6x) may also serve to magnify the effect caused by vibrations. It is a quite steep learning curve, admittedly.

Tord · Jul 27, 2011

Hi Hor Kee,

Attaching some pictures I am quite happy with, I believe I got focus sharp, as good as can be. Still not using Live View, I think focusing in the viewfinder is nicer - but I suppose I should give Live View a try...

Pictures are taken at 20 meters distance from subject and slightly cropped from original for composition reasons.

Cheers
Tord

Hor Kee · Jul 27, 2011

Tord said:
Hi Hor Kee,

Attaching some pictures I am quite happy with, I believe I got focus sharp, as good as can be. Still not using Live View, I think focusing in the viewfinder is nicer - but I suppose I should give Live View a try...

Pictures are taken at 20 meters distance from subject and slightly cropped from original for composition reasons.

Cheers
Tord

Yup, you are getting better indeed. Love the photo of the Great Crested Grebes. The learning curve of this setup is rather steep and needs a unique set of skills IMHO

Tord · Aug 11, 2011

Hi again,

An update on my progress, sharing some results that I am particularly pleased with. The light conditions were quite poor (EV12-13) but the uniform and dark background made focusing relatively easy and the keeper rate was quite high.

Data:
ISO800 (possibly 1000, don't remember exactly), ~1/500 s, -1 EV (on purpose).

Pictures are essentially full size frame, slightly cropped only, noise reduced and resized for forum.

/Tord

(Apologies for not having new bird species to display...)

Hor Kee · Aug 12, 2011

Tord said:
Hi again,

An update on my progress, sharing some results that I am particularly pleased with. The light conditions were quite poor (EV12-13) but the uniform and dark background made focusing relatively easy and the keeper rate was quite high.

Data:
ISO800 (possibly 1000, don't remember exactly), ~1/500 s, -1 EV (on purpose).

Pictures are essentially full size frame, slightly cropped only, noise reduced and resized for forum.

/Tord

(Apologies for not having new bird species to display...)

Good shots of the grebes! You are definitely getting better :t:

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