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ISRAEL, 19-26 September 2010 (1 Viewer)

Miilda

Well-known member
Introduction
This short trip to Israel was our annual autumn bird-watching holiday. September in Israel is not the best time to watch birds compared to the immense possibilities on offer during the massive spring migration. Therefore, when I was looking for valuable information for our trip, I struggled a little to find reports about early autumn birdwatching holidays in Israel. This inspired me to make my humble contribution and write my own report.

We are just beginners in birdwatching (only four, but very active, years in this amazing hobby). We planned the trip ourselves, using reports on the Internet and checking some websites of local birdwatchers from Israel and other organizations. And we got some very useful contacts of Israeli birdwatchers from our friends. As gratuity we promised to search for the ringed Black Storks, as they do a project of the protection of Black Storks in Lithuania. This story probably won’t appear so interesting to highly experienced birdwatchers, travellers and veterans of this forum, as you won’t find any rarities or unusual things here. We didn’t have any particular targets as this was our first trip in the Middle East and therefore many of the common birds and other wildlife were new and interesting for us. The intention was to travel all around Israel, hoping to see as much as possible of this unique small country where the three continents of Asia, Europe and Africa meet. Moreover, Israel lies along a major migration route for millions of birds. The north of the country is decorated with the snowy cap of Muont Hermon and the south with the jewel of Eilat, which is dipped in the refreshing waters of the Red Sea. It’s like a woman’s body whose western side is washed by the warm Mediterranean Sea, whose legs are heated by the Negev desert and whose waist is marked by the magnificent Dead Sea. The River Jordan is snuggled against her north-eastern side. The Hulla Valey, a famous wetland area, and the Bet Shean Valley with its numerous fish ponds and open farm lands tempt the traveller to the north. Due to such mosaic diversity Israel accounts for around 500 species of birds and is a real joy for all birdwatchers. And along with all this beauty and natural diversity, the whole country is literally stuffed with soldiers with machine-guns and seeing this, you are persecuted by thoughts about the never-ending political hassle, conflicts, etc. But maybe this is not the place to write about such sad things...

We spent full seven days in Israel (19 – 26 September) during which time we travelled about 1 700 km, saw 142 species of birds (27 of which were new for us!), some butterflies, hundreds of colourful fish, a few lizards and mammals. We visited Jerusalem, the Ma’agam Michael fish pools, Eilat, Ein Gedi and Dead Sea, the Beat Shean valley, the Hulla valey Reserve and the Gamla nature Reserve. These were fantastically warm (well ok, actually sometimes too hot) days full of impressions, discoveries and some losses ... one very unpleasant criminal event at the last evening of our voyage and our final lucky escape home to the cold and rainy Lithuania! But all is to follow.
 
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Wasting time before the journey begins/ not about birds basically (day 1)

We didn’t have a very pleasant flight from Vilnius via Kiev to Tel-Aviv as we had to spend 10 hours in Kiev. I bought these tickets as they were the cheapest, and if I haven’t mentioned it yet, it was supposed to be a budget trip. Sounds strange, doesn’t it. You are probably thinking, they definitely chose the wrong country, but that was our choice. So, as I hadn’t found any good places to watch birds around Ukrainian capital we went to the city to do some sightseeing. I would say it was quite boring, but I saw three interesting birds (concrete though, the pictures are attached ;)) and one funny Porsche-taxi. I wonder if it cost the same as a normal taxi! After some hours it started raining and became cold, so we decided to return to the airport and make the last preparations for our itinerary. Our late flight to Tel-Aviv then followed, and with about a half of an hour delay, we landed, smoothly passed through all formalities, no specific questions only kind smiles on the faces of officials when they heard the purpose of our visit – Birdwatching!

I forgot to mention that ‘we’ actually means three of us: me, my husband Laimis and our friend Gintaras, who was probably the most experienced traveller as he could count such exotic countries as Nepal and Peru in his birdwatching trips list.
But, I have to say that his contribution to our program was minimal as he was extremely busy and in the end he was appointed as the person responsible for preparing our Jerusalem excursion, as he was the one who insisted we visited it. I hadn’t had a particular interest in going there, but as I had to meet with my sister who has been living in Israel for 15 years, and it was the first time that I had visited her in this country, I had to spend at least one day with her. Therefore, I decided that spending this day in Jerusalem would probably be the best choice. Well I know that this was a waste of time in the context of a bird-watching holiday but... So, we used the excellent Lonely Planet Guide of Israel and Palestinian territories. We saw only a few birds in Jerusalem, I found my first Spectacled Bulbul in the Crusader Citadel, while House Sparrows and Laughing Doves were everywhere, I also saw some House Martins, and one Kestrel crossed the sky in a gap between two buildings. At the end of the day Gintaras realized that he needed one more day in the city, so we left him there and made an agreement to meet the following evening at Tel-Aviv bus station.

Laimis and I spent that night in Ashdod at our friend’s home, as we needed to borrow a tent and rent a car there next morning. The tent was taken in case we won’t find a proper place where to sleep. I was so naive… it was so hot during all days (about +40 C) that I couldn’t persuade my companions to refuse night refreshment in conditioned room with shower and we like idiots travelled needlessly laded with the tent! The car was rented from Budget car rental office and cost only 213 USD for 7 days and it was a Hyundai Getz. It was maybe little bit too small for three persons, but it was the cheapest and we and all our stuff somehow fitted in. So, after taking the car we headed straight to our first destination Ma’agan Michael!
 

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Ma’agan Michael (day 2)

Ma’agan Michael is located on the Mediterranean coast between Tel-Aviv and Haifa and our target was the fishponds just North of the village and coast. When we first entered the village we turned to the left, passed some gardens with beautiful bushes in bright motley blooms and drove until the road ended and parked under the shadow of a tree. And what a nice place it was to stop. There were plenty of bushes, some trees and a nice view from a hill to ponds surrounded by vegetation where Little White Egrets and Night Herons could be seen. While I was walking around, a woodpecker was drumming nearby and I almost passed it thinking “Great Spotted probably...”, but fortunately I remembered that I wasn’t in Lithuania and soon discovered a rather tame male Syrian Woodpecker but pitty I didn’t have camera to take pictures. I wanted to ask someone permission to enter the pools’ territory by car and found a lady which gave me a phone number of some guy. He advised us to go to another pools to the north of the village. I came back to the car but Laimis had disappeared somewhere, so I had some time to wander around. I noticed a movement in a tree close to our car - my first ever shiny male Palestine Sunbird was hovering there. I had been admiring this tiny creature for a few moments when some noisy House Sparrows spilled from a near bush. I checked them carefully, thinking that maybe I would see some Spanish or even Dead Sea Sparrows but, instead of these, a Graceful Prinia emerged from the bush flicking its tail, another new bird for me! I strolled about and was approaching a small pond when five Spur-winged Lapwings landed for a second, noticed me and flew away! I know that all these birds were common, but for me they were in my long targets list and I spent just about 15 minutes there and saw three new birds. I was excited.

When Laimis came we drove towards the northern pools. We moved slowly looking around and suddenly two Egyptian Mongooses crossed the road some hundred meters in front of us. A lizard, Roughtail Rock Agama, was sunbathing nearby on a wall. When we entered the fish ponds the first bird I saw was a Pied Kingfisher perching on the reeds, I then looked to the other side - five of them were sitting on a wire! I couldn’t believe that I was seeing so many Pied Kingfishers. They looked so strange to me, like somebody had cut them from a black-and-white movie and pasted them in to our colourfull reality. And they were everywhere, sometimes noisily chasing each other, sometimes just sitting quietly. And what a fantastic place was these ponds – pure haven of kinfishers and herrons. Spur-winged Lapwings were in abundance, as were Night Herons, Little Egrets and one pool was full of Slender-billed Gulls. Soon we found White-throated Kingfishers, but they were not as numerous as Pied and more careful so we couldn’t get close enough to take good pictures. We drove leisurely along the tracks, taking pictures and admiring a nice view of perching Squacco Herons, one Grey Herron standing in a ballerina pose, Barn Swallows darting above the water, Crested Larks foraging on the tracks and quite a lot of very nice Plain Tiger Butterflies fluttering around. Some more Egyptian Mongooses sneaked by and hid in the reeds. Several pools were covered by nets, but it didn’t prevent the Common and Pied Kingfishers from diving below the nets to catch a fish. At the edges of the pond single Common and Green Sandpipers, a few Ruffs and Redshanks were looking for food. Finally we found one very tame White-throated Kingfisher which wasn’t bothered about us and we had plenty of opportunities to take many pictures close up. As the temperature was rising every hour we decided that it was time to refresh ourselves in the sea. The set of the ponds were just on the shore and the aquamarine sea looked really tempting. We ran in to the water and what a disappointment, it was so warm, like tea, not refreshing at all! At least the waves were high…
 

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At the seashore there was a big flock of waders containing Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Little Stints, Dunlins, Black-winged Stilt and a single Turnstone were resting or feeding. Sleepy Yellow -legged and Slender-billed Gulls watched us with one slit eye and a Pied Kingfisher hovered above a pool on the beach. It was very strange for us to see a European Kingfisher flying above the sea and then sitting on the sand. But the time passed quickly and we had to hurry to meet our friend in Tel-Aviv for our next long journey to the most southern part of Israel - Eilat. While we were stopped somewhere at a traffic light en route I noticed a flock of birds foraging in the grass, checked them and hey, they were Common Mynas, one more tick for me!

Initially we thought of doing the 340 km distance in 3-4 hours, but it was more than a hour longer because of traffic near Tel-Aviv and the winding road 40 started from Be’er Sheva (and it’s about 200 km). Nothing special en route except two camels’ silhouettes at dusk. So in the depth of darkness we passed the military post near Eilat city and after some searching we arrived at our Arava Hostel. It was our cheapest accommodation in Israel and cost only 480 NIS (about 100 EUR) without breakfast for three of us for two nights! No luxury, but the most important things such as conditioner, shower and even refrigerator were in the room and that was exactly what we needed. Later we found out that it is even possible to use the kitchen and prepare some food for yourself.

When we walked towards our room I was loping after the boys and noticed something running on the floor. ‘Pew, a cockroach’ - I thought... I overtook it and discovered that it was a tiny yellowish almost transparent lizard. Very nice to have lizards instead of cockroaches :)
It was the end of an amazing day and I had seen 8 new species of birds, one new mammal, two lizards, one new butterfly and this was only the first day of our bird-watching! I was in seventh heaven.
 

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EILAT (day 3)

Getting up at about 6 am, a quick coffee for the boys and just water for me, mini test for the hostel staff on how much they know about the local parks (we tried to find out where is Holland Park), unsuccessful however, we packed into the car and headed straight to Holland Park. Arrived at the place which we found according to coordinates we had copied from Google Maps the evening before and er… it could hardly be a park as we couldn’t see a single tree there. We came back to the city again and stopped in a petrol station to ask the direction. The staff didn’t have any idea where our park was, but fortunately a taxi driver was there and explained the route. As we were nearby the Bird Sanctuary (you can see the signs to it from road 90) ,we decided to check that place first. Spur-winged Lapwings, Redshank, Little Stints, Black-winged Stilts and Slender-billed Gulls were in the small ponds there and noisy Rouse-ringed Parakeets in the trees. After some lazy moments watching waders our trio moved to Holland Park. This time it was a successful attempt.

Holland Park is located in the desert region on the outskirts of Eilat. The desert trees and shrubs which extend over an area of about 90 acres provide a nice green site for birds and other wildlife. Every plant receives water through small hoses. They sometimes refer to this place as Holland Forest. This was very strange for us, as there were sparse trees on the bare rocky soil and they didn’t look at all like our dense forests.

Our first Blackstart met us several metres from the gates, displayed itself for some moments and then flew away. We moved forward, a nice flock of European Bee-eaters lingered above us, calling their soft rolling lilting songs, numerous Barn Swallows and a few Red-rumped Swallows followed them. I noticed that some of the Barn Swallows had rusty-coloured underside, probably they were of transitiva subspecies. By that time the sun was quite high and the heat was rising. The temperature was probably around +35 C, and my gentleman, with such a naive air, inquired: “Has anybody taken the water for drinking?”. “Yes, I have”, I replied, ”Only 0.5 litre, but no worries, it will be enough for me ”. An unhappy murmur then followed with the comment: ”At the entrance there was a note with a warning to take at least 3 litres”. Then suddenly our first group of Sand Partridges run out of a bush and hid behind a hill. Seeing them we forgot about our thirst and continued our walk. We strolled around the trees and shrubs admiring Spectacled Bulbuls, Red-backed and Masked-Shrikes. A single Lesser Whitethroat was busy in a bush and a Kestrel soared in the sky. I saw some small butterflies here and there and some of them I recognized, such as the Blue-Spotted Arab and Mediterranean Blue. We continued our wander and we found more Sand Partridges which were taking shelter amongst the trees from the by now baking heat. We had almost left the park when I noticed a bush which was fluttering with Blue-spotted Arab butterflies. I don’t know what was so special in that bush but it was literally covered with these small delicate creatures.

We returned to Eilat, quickly jumped into a small local shop to buy something to eat and replenish water and then went straight to the northern beach of the Red Sea. The Jordan border was just a few metres on the right and groups of hotels were on the left. However, it was almost empty of birds. In a channel near to the beach we spotted only a few Yellow and White Wagtails, two Grey Herons, a single Little Stint and a Little Gull, a very early visitor, as we found out later. Only one Crested Lark could be seen picking something from the ground on the beach itself. We didn’t find any of the expected White-eyed Gulls, it was around 11 am and we had definitely arrived too late. The thermometer showed +36 C and after pleasant refreshment in the cool waters of the Red Sea (a completely different feeling compared with the tea-warm Mediterranean Sea) we headed to the famous Coral Beach. The temperature then rose up to +39 C, oh, it was going to be a very hot day!

Is it Mediterranean Blue butterfly?
 

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As we had plans to visit more National parks and reserves, we bought tickets which allowed us to visit any 6 parks or reserves and we went straight to the Coral Beach Reserve. The price of this ticket was 90 NIS per person, while one separate visit can cost from 20 to 30 NIS. As I had read in someone’s report, the Corral Beach is the place to visit while in Eilat and I can confirm this opinion and strongly recommend this amazing place, especially for those like us, who had never snorkelled.

It was real pleasure to soak in the fresh Red Sea and I can’t find the words to describe the flow of feelings I was overwhelmed with, I was fascinated and stunned by the beauty which I saw. If paradise exists somewhere in the world then definitely this is one of such places. The different shapes, colours and sizes of corrals were flooded with sparkling water. There were quite a lot of people, but when I soaked in the water and swam a little bit further I forgot about everything in the world, didn’t notice anybody and just savoured the pleasure of admiring the submarine life; that colourful undersea world in which school after school of exotic fishes emerged about me and disappeared into the coral garden. Some of the fishes were so tame and curious that they came so close that I almost could touch them, but as I just reached out my hand they scattered away immediately. Exploring that magnificent world, I believe I saw Sergeant Major Damselfishes, Picasso Trigger Fishes, Yellowtail Surgeonfishes, Orangestriped Triggerfishes, Rusty Parrotfishes and many others but I wasn’t able to identify them. Plenty of black long-spined sea urchins were lurking in the corrals, a Moray eel surprised me from within the corrals and a Crocodile fish opened its eyes unexpectedly when Laimis was swimming above it. We spent about three hours in that marvellous place and we wanted more but another superb experience was waiting for us – the famous 20 km saltpans!

The saltpans are easy to find, they are visible from road 90 and are 20 km on the route north from Eilat. We entered the territory and started our observation from the car. To do it any other way was practically impossible as the heat was enormous, the humidity was high and being in the car we could get closer to the birds. What a fantastic place this was, I could spend days and days there checking waders and other birds, and it would never be enough for me. The first big pool was quite empty, but 5 Caspian Terns wearied from the heat, were resting on an Island with open bills. Several Black-winged Stilts and Redshanks were feeding inshore and a White-winged Tern flew above. We circled around the pool and then approached another one, with less water and full of waders. They were so numerous that I could barely remember seeing so many. Amongst all of the birds that were feeding, running, resting or sleeping in that pool (more Black-winged Stilts and Redshanks, many Little Stints, some Common Sandpipers, Spotted Redshanks, Ringed, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Ruffs) we saw about 10 Marsh Sandpipers and 3 Avocets. From the back seat Gintaras started stuttering something incoherently. I checked where his binoculars were pointed and wow!!! No less than 21 Collared Pratincoles were quietly resting on the ground! These gorgeous birds were on my wish list. I saw two of them last spring in Bulgaria but just in flight. And there they were; a nice flock of these beauties before me. Just as we were enjoying watching them, some of them suddenly raised their wings as if they were about to exercise, started to call and one by one the whole flock appeared in the sky, made a circle above us and disappeared to the south. We were slowly moving forward when another surprise emerged in the sky: three Purple Herons were flying from the Jordan border! They passed our car and landed in the pool which we were observing! It was my first time seeing these birds in an open area. They had no chances to hide in the reeds in these saltpans, as it was just bare tracks and banks of pools everywhere. We approached them carefully, made some photos and our blue Getz slunk further away.
Further pond had a nice collection of plovers: Little Ringed, Ringed and Kentish Plovers were scattered amongst Little Stints. In the middle of that pond some flocks of Great Flamingos were feeding, in total there were about 300 birds. Sand Martins and Barn Swallows rested on the muddy banks and Slender-billed Gulls walked around. We were driving around, watching birds, taking photos and when we reached the edge of the area where the vast territory of sparse scrubs began extending two Dorcas Gazelles jumped from the bush and galloped away.

It was about 5.15 pm then and however it was time to leave that excellent place full of the birds, as I had ambitions to see Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse. We drove out of the salt pans territory, passed agricultural gardens and then turned to the left to the small road which was parallel to road No 90. We drew about 1.5 km till reached big and noisy cows shelters. Close to the shelters there was a fenced pool. We parked the car, found a hall in the fence and climbed on the mound which surrounded the pool. I settled myself on the bank. The boys sat impassively away from me and didn’t help me at all to wait for the L. Sandgrouse. It was about 15 minutes to 6 pm and every minute was getting darker and darker. Spur-winged Lapwings, Grey and Night Herons, Great White and Little Egrets where gathered on the Northern part of the pond and Mallards were scattered on the surface. Three dogs were sniffing on the southern bank, so I decided that there was no point probably to gaze at that part. After some minutes the dark came and I decided that my targets wouldn’t come when suddenly one bird firmly stepped up the bank, stopped for a second, walked further and flew to the cows shelters and flew away. Unfortunately due to the lack of experience and poor light conditions I couldn’t identify it. The shape of the bird could be similar to the LS but it was too dark for me and the bird was too far. Well, actually I would like to find an excuse, because I don’t know what it was!
And that was the end, we went to a shop, bought some food and beer and celebrated one more fantastic day.
 

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Eilat and journey to Ein Gedi, Dead Sea (day 4)

Next morning we found a surprise. The sky was gloom of the clouds and the temperature was just about +22 C and was a feeling that it will be raining soon. Our Northern bodies exhausted of the yesterdays heat probably invoked a cooler weather.

We had an appointment to meet with Itai Shanni, famous professional birdwatcher in Israel, at about 8 am, therefore we decided to check Bird Sanctuary before the meeting. The same collection of birds was there but we met another local birdwatcher who was on holiday in Eilat. We chatted little bit, shared about our observations and he told us that he saw flying female Namaqua Dove close to that place. Huh, it was a bird of my targets list! Itai told later that they do breed in that area but we didn’t saw them however. When Itai arrived we headed via Palms Grove to the Northern Beach. Our first Indian Silverbills landed on a fence, Spotted Flycatcher perched on the other side of a track, and Common Redstart and Masked Shrikes were seen. When we left the Palms Grove our first and the only one of the trip House Crow was perching on a pole and Stepe Buzzard soared above us. When we arrived at the Northern Beach it looked empty. The scopes were settled and Itai after few moments spotted a single juvenile of White-eyed Gull which was resting on a boat. Thought it was quite distant, in Jordan territory, it was perfectly seen distinctive slim shape and white eye’s crescent. The bird sometimes took off, flew around and landed again. Itai spotted and showed to us very distant White-cheeked Tern. Suddenly I noticed a bird which was similar to Night Herron juvenile landing on a boat. Fortunately Itai was here, because it wasn’t Night Herron, it was Striated Heron! I observed it more carefully and indeed the bird was somehow slimmer with not so heavy bill. It was good lesson for me. Then we had to say goodbye to Itai who kindly gave useful advices where to stop on our route to Ein Gedi and we slowly followed Itai’s car along the channel.

My first ever beautiful light immature Western Reef-egret was standing along the water was nice farewell to Eilat. We wondered in the palms forest for a while with a hope to find Namaqua Doves or to take more pictures of Indian Silverbills, however neither of them was seen and we headed to the North.
 

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Our first stop was in the agricultural fields near Yotvata at about 37 km by road 90. We drove along the sandy road and almost passed a bush when happily from the back seat the sudden shout “Stop, stop, back, back!” brought us backwards and what a beauties we saw! Three stunning males of Namaqua Doves were perching in the bush! We had some moments for admiration and pictures and the birds flew away. The fields unfortunately were quite empty, just some small flocks of Crested and Short-toed Larks flounced amongst the sprouts and Isabeline Wheaters were bobbing on humps.

Second stop was some kilometres further with a temptation to find Barbary Falcon, but only two Barn Swallows accompanied us during quick very late breakfast or actually it should be lunch for normal people.

Our journey continued further north and we stopped in the desert near Hatseva. Bare, rocky desert with odd scrubs or solitary leafless trees stretched everywhere and heat flushed into our faces we just opened the door or the window of the car. A single Palestine Sunbird was hovering around the tiny blossoms of lonely tree when we noticed a movement around stones. It was not so easy to spot a bird which almost vanished on the ground, then another one appeared nearby - two Desert Larks were foraging there. Group of Sand Partridges were running and hiding around a bush and Blackstart was hopping around. An unidentified yellow lizard with long fingers and crocodile-like head was lifting its legs alternately and large ants were running around. My first two Scrub Warblers skipped nearby and nice Green Bee-eater perched on a dead tree for a while, then swooped into the air and back on the branch again to pose nicely for our camera. Our “off-road” Hyundai circled round there, escaped from the desert and whirled forward to the North.

There is a petrol station on road 90 at HaArava junction and road 25 climbs up. We stopped at the petrol station first, but no sign of a target bird was seen, then we drove to the parking place with an observation site up road 25, where some cars were parked and noisy children were playing. A pair of our first Tristram‘s Starlings demonstrated the bright orange patches on wings, when flying, and landed on a road sign. Blackstart hopped on a fence looking for the crumbs, however no quest there as well. I went to the observation site and stunning views of the canyon opened beneath my foot. The road made a serpentine-like bend there and I watched the cars disappearing afar. Suddenly I heard a strange sound and thought „What the hell is going on with that car that it makes so terrible noise!“ and next moment I saw two falcons in the air. I was so stupid! It wasn‘t a car, there were two Sooty Falcons fighting and screaming! I summoned the boys and we had some short moments to witness of acrobatic skills demonstrated by the juvenile and adult of our target birds - Sooty Falcons - when they disappeared beyond the horizon… Er, I know that I’m greedy, but actually I wasn’t happy with that sighting... The birds were too far, too briefly seen and I couldn’t observe them so well as I wanted, so I was little bit disappointed...
 

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Dead Sea area, Ein Gedi

We were close to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on the Earth's surface which is more than 400 m below sea level. When we were going through the Juden Hills, which hedge the sea on the west, I had a strange feeling: you are high in the mountains, going up and up and somewhere near the top find a sign which shows that only here you reached sea level.

Unfortunately we were late to visit Masada - the road to it was closed already. So we headet to the Youth Hostel in Ein Gedi. In the reception of the hostel we were amazed to hear “Oh, laba diena!” (“Hello” in Lithuanian) after the receptionist checked our passports. He lived in Lithuania long time ago! He was very kind and friendly, gave us a very spacious room (for 5 or 6 persons) with a nice balcony and fantastic view to the Dead Sea. After enquiry where to buy the famous mud of the Dead Sea for our obligatory health and rejuvenation procedures the guy suggested don’t waste money but just dig the mud and told where to find it. So, we headed straight to the beach wishing to undergo the magical and special healing and cosmetic effect of the mud and to float on the sea. There was a good camping on the coast, just down from Ein Gedi (hm, we could spent the night there, I thought, but didn‘t expressed it loudly...I was too spoilt...it was so hot and the room was ordered ...). Pebbles were cemented with halite on the shore and the water of hypersaline lake was so saturated that it was oily and viscous. I was investigating the stony beach in quest of “treasure”, noticed some black people at a distance, but decided that they were Native Africans and only when I approached them I found that they were covered with mud. They took it from a turbid puddle and it was mixed with grit. It wasn’t that what I had expected. Then, probably, a local guy came, started to scratch in nearby pit and after a moment withdraw fistful of soft mud. Then Gintaras rolled up just in time, so he was the one who continued excavation and I got soon the big lump of luxurious mud. We covered and massaged each other with the mud, spent some 20 minutes allowing it to soak and to do it’s magical job and then dipped in the water. Returned to the hostel definitely at least ten years younger and much nicer:gh:. Quick summation of the day followed and it was time to sleep.
 
I'm enjoying your report and photos Milda - Many thanks for the cheerful and interesting record of your trip. Some great birds - Namaqua Dove and Sooty Falcon were highlights of my visit to neighbouring Jordan a few years go.

Cheers
Mike
 
Thank you wolfbirder, Fritz and Mike for the kind words. Most of pictures were taken by Laimis, only some I took.
 
Ein Gedi (day 5)

Early wake up next morning and I run straight to the balcony. Misty sun hanged above the calm, flat glass-like sea surface. The hostel’s trees were busy with singing Spectacled Bulbuls, chirping Sparrows and probably something else, which calls I didn’t recognize. Suddenly herd of Nubian Ibexes appeared out of the bushes! About 10 females and youngsters were nibbling fresh grass and didn’t pay attention on me at all. Pleasant photography session and afterwards we drove to the mountains north of Ein Gedi with a hope to see migrating raptors.

It was sad to witness how shrunken was the Dead Sea because of the reduced water inflow from the Jordan River as a result of massive irrigation and low rainfall. Wide bare shores met the eye. On the other side of the road a single Black-eared Wheatear was hopping on the rocks and some Tristram’s Starlings appeared in some places. The mountains, however, were rather empty. Only Rock Doves were seen in a deep canyon and two Fan-tailed Ravens were our reward.

After breakfast next destination was En Gedi Nature Reserve, some hundred metres out of the hostel. The reserve was a magnificent oasis in the desert area which was watered by two year-round streams - the David Stream in the North and the Arugot Stream in the South. Because of the Sukkot holydays crowds of visitors sieged the entrance to the park. We spurted through them trying to find a track or a place somewhere to avoid the terrible fuss. Just some metres from the entrance we noticed a tree branches of which were covered with sleeping Hyraxes. No less than 15 of them were basking on the branches and didn’t worry about photographed children and numerous visitors passing them. Looking at these fairly small, furred rotund creatures it was difficult to believe that they are the closest living relatives to the elephant! I spotted a blob on a tree high on the cliff. “Owl!” I thought for a second, but after a double-check it appeared to be a Hyrax which was hanging on a slim branches trying to reach some tiny sparse leaves. In the open wide base of a mountain gorgeous male of Nubian Ibex walked with pride demonstrating massive horns. We hastily passed alluring pools of David Stream, however full of soaking visitors, and hiked up the rocky path, digressing and meeting the stream, wedged between the bright cliffs. The Giant reeds and cattails flagged above the water and the bright rock face was jam-packed with noisy Fan-tailed Ravens and flocks of Tristram’s Starlings underneath. We scrambled higher and higher away from the masses. The heat was tiresome and when we found a secluded pool close to the track we splashed into it with all our clothes. I had a hope to connect with Arabian Babblers in this area. Unfortunately nothing except of a single Grey Wagtail foraging on the bank of the stream was seen. We scarcely clambered out of the pool and continued our wander down the path. The effective karstic Dodim Cave at the top of the David Waterfall was on our way and there we had another splash. On the rock face nearby the cave was an extremely tame female of Tristram’s Starling which definitely was used to visitors and I barely could touch it. Just a pity we didn’t have any food to offer her. After the refreshment under the waterfowl we were admiring the breathtaking scenery for a while overlooking the magnificent Dead Sea and lofty mountains spruced with green stream’s oasis and palms grove nearby the entrance to the reserve.

We were heading down back to the crowds and people were still flowing into the park. When we reached a part of the path which was surrounded by low acacias we spotted our quarry – stunning Arabian Babbler was foraging on lower branches and Blackstart accompanied it! I marvelled at the bird trying to avoid people and no less than 4 more birds appeared on another side hopping and picking on the ground. Happy with a new tick under our belt we departed the park, repeated the beauty therapy with the “magical” Dead Sea mud and headed further to the North.
 

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Uneventfully crossed West Bank territory being stopped by astonished soldiers at the northern border and after some questions what we were doing there and where we were going, seeing our binoculars and books they wished us good luck on our journey. Heading further we saw like scenery was changing gradually – bare white rocks were replaced with soft hills covered with dry grass which progressively turned into green with gross bushes and tall trees. Some Kestrels were hovering in the air, flocks of Laughing and Coloured Doves were seen as well as first on this trip Black Kite sprang up. Suddenly I spotted a white blob – an impressive Black-shouldered Kite with shining red eyes was perching on the adjacent tree close to our road. Abrupt turn around and we were staring at the bird which was preening his feathers some moments nicely allowing us to take pictures. After what the kite swooped into the wind and moved away swinging above the fields. We were hurrying further, passing agricultural fields, where flocks of Spur-winged Lapwings, Cattle and Little Egrets were foraging, we noticed one very pale harrier resting on the ground. It could have been Pallid Harrier but we couldn’t ascertain it as the traffic was too busy, cars were pushing us from the behind ant there were no place to stop in narrow road. I had a hope that we would see more of them in the next days but unfortunately we didn’t.

So we headed to Beit She'an - a place for our next two nights. Our road was running along the agricultural fields and when it made a bend an extraordinary sight met our eyes - more than 350 Black Kites were resting on the ground and that was only one field. I had never seen before so many of them and when I looked round more intently I noticed that actually they were everywhere – on trees, in the sky and even more of them on adjacent fields, there were hundreds and hundreds of them! And next days we saw a lot of Black Kites, they were almost everywhere in Beit She'an area and I was wondering how such huge masses of these relatively big birds could find enough food. Maybe somebody could it explain to me?

Due to the Sucot holydays we struggled a bit to find a sleeping place. It is popular in Israel to spend free days somewhere in the north of the country by reason of cooler weather, but the tip didn’t work that time. All days were extremely hot with temperature raised by 40 degrees. After some searching we settled ourselves in a private accommodation offered by our navigation system. We have got a spacious conditioned room with double bed and a sofa for Gintaras, shower and a refrigerator with tea equipment. The prise was quite usurious - 400 shekels for the first night and 350 for the second, but we decided to accept it avoiding enervating sleep in a hot tent.
 

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Beit She'an area (day 6)

Next morning I decided to savour a tea sitting outside and enjoying birds moving around me: Great Tits were hoping in a tree, House Sparrows followed then, Palestine Sunbird appeared for a second and a flock of Indian Silverbills shoved nicely. Spectacled Bulbuls were singing everywhere and Rose-ringed Parakeets made a row.

That morning we had an appointment near Afula with Johnatan Meirav - a famous professional birder for the Israel Ornithological Centre and the director of the soaring birds migration survey in the northern valleys. It was 8 am and we arrived just in time, the show had just started and what a memorial sight it was. Flocks of raptors were gliding and gliding above us and all to one direction – to the South. One Short-toed Eagle, then another one, then 3 of them were moving above our heads; flock of Lesser-spotted Eagles, maybe 7 and all juveniles, which will spend next three years in Africa before to come back as mature adults to the breeding grounds; then our first 15 Levant Sparrowhawks and later another 7 of them; then Booted Eagles and Honney Buzards passed us as single Marsh Harrier did and of course Black Kites. They were resting on a trees, many of them and didn’t bothered to join the echelons of others receding to the South. But then Johnatan decided to relocate to another watching point as were reports about very good movement out there. But, however, when we arrived everything was calm and seemed to be finished. Just a single Kestrer was hanging above us and a Short-toed Eagle passing over. Very nice meadow echoed with Zitting Cisticola calls nearby.

The abatement of raptors movement meant that it was time to continue our wonders and we headed to the pools near Ginnegar cloze to the road 73. Marbled Duck was reported recently and there was good chance to find Terek Sandpiper, so I had a desire to see them. The first pool which we checked was quite small but had a nice set of waders: Spur-winged Lapwings, Bar-tailed Godwits, Wood Sandpipers, Snipes, Black-winged Stilts, Marsh Sandpipers, Ruffs, Redshanks and Ringed Plovers were feeding along the banks. A small head popped out of the water and a tiny Swamp Turtle crawled on a protruded rock. We went on and approached another pool which was close to the agricultural fields and they were watering with a special device which drove and sprinkled the water. It was so hot, even in the conditioned car, and I decided that it would be so cool to have a shower and so I did. But ups, my rubber Crocks we covered with at least 1 kg of wet clay each. Hmm, definitely my companions wouldn’t be happy with me such dirty in the car… A lizard (I can't identify it yet, maybe somebody could help with it) was hanging on a fence. I clambered on a high bank and full pond of ducks overlooked in front of me – rafts of Mallards and Shovelers accompanied with Red-necked, Black-necked and Little Grebes were there. Grey Herons, Great, Little and Cattle Egrets were feeding at the edge. I was standing and patiently checking every duck, but couldn’t find anything which would suite to Marbled Duck. Almost all ducks were in eclipse plumage and they were receding of me. The Sun was scorching me unmercifully and I had a feeling that my brains boil soon, but no sign of the target bird. I was standing for a while fighting with the heat but then gave up. I checked several times the surface of the pool, but any duck wasn’t like Marbled to me. One more pool was checked, all the same birds there plus Curlew Sandpiper, Ringed and Little-ringed Plovers were found and Gintaras saw a Wigeon.

Of we wondered to another fish ponds near Neve Etan and just entered the area as saw one almost drain pool fool of Black Storks, about 150 of them were gathered there plus some minority of White brothers. That meant that it was time to fulfil a promise given to our Lithuanian colleagues – try to find Black Storks with colour rings. Egyptyan Manguse passed meanwhile. So, the search has started and soon we spotted one fellow with a pale ring on the left leg. Settled the scope, but the bird was too far and we started to move. We were creeping like a snail for a half of an hour when eventually reached the bird with a proper distant, the numbers were clear then and even some quite good photos were taken. It was wasting of time to pick nits with these rings and we moved away to the other fish ponds near Kfar Ropin. And what a nice place they were, again full of birds - both species of storks, all herons and egrets seen before, the same set of kingfishers, Yellow-legged Gulls, Pygmy Cormorants, Moorhens and, of course, mentioned before waders plus some Green Sandpipers and Little Stints. Crested Larks and Yellow Wagtails were scattered along the tracks and Barn Swallows glided above when were interrupted by Osprey which appeared in the sky. At one pond a flock of 21 Glossy Ibises was flushed to the air when our car came up. Passing Egyptian Mongoose crossed our road when we were leaving.
 

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Next point was a cemetery nearby where we found Great Grey Shrike, Palestine Sunbird, Spectacled Bulbuls and Graceful Prynia. After our road followed to the mountains where we knew the spot inhabited by Long-billed Pipit. On route we saw a Roller in the agricultural fields; in Mountainous area a male of Nubian Ibex galloped down the slope and Short-toed Eagle slowly crossed the sky. We didn’t see any pipit there, thought I heard a strange chirp for a moment but then it hushed and never repeated again. On the way back our first flock of 10 Chukars crossed our path, running like crazy and spilled over in different directions. We returned to the fields and drove along the road which followed Jordan border fence. Since then Gintaras had started to moan that he needed the Red-footed Falcon to see in Israel. Emergency stop was the reason of seeing something possible; however it appeared to be a female of Kestrel. Little and Cattle Egrets were feeding nearby, Crested Larks and Hoopoe were pecking on the ground and my first ever Golden Jackal ran somehow troubled along the mountainous horizon. On the border fence we noticed a blob, oh how nice – a Little Owl was quietly sitting there and was so tame that we approached it very close, mere few steps from the car. We even played with it – drew slowly along, then moved back whereas the owl outwatched us all the time and when the pole covered our sight little fellow stretched the neck and looked at us behind the corner.

We drew little bit further and decided to walk a bit. I found my first Chameleon swinging on its legs and climbing slowly on dry reeds in a ditch. I parted from my friends and turned to the overgrown path on the left. By that time Sun was getting down and I didn’t saw everything properly, but noticed a strange trio which flew some centimetres above the ground, looked like three flies synchronically moved, but it wasn’t a fly. I saw it next day and it was a dragonfly, as I found later Banded Groundung. And then I almost stroked at Golden Jackal, we were standing against each other both agaze, poped-eyed, glared few seconds but the Jackal decided turn back and dragged away. And again I didn’t have a camera… “I really need my own camera!”, I thought.

Evening approached, it was dusk and just a time for the night hunt! We wanted to find two owls (Barn and Scops) or maybe even some mammals would hit our road. We were driving around, with short stops there and there, listened carefully, but everywhere was quiet and silent, just dogs were barking away… Shining eyes followed our car when we were driving, then crossed the road in front of us, something like a fox or Jackal. We kept on driving, appeared somewhere in the fields and went past a bridge along dense bushes when suddenly a hoarse shrill hit the silence… hit the breaks and sudden back …. A white blob sat on a bush but just for a second, then flushed away… like mirage, but I was sure that I saw it… total silence and darkness around… we had no chose, played for a moment call of Barn Owl with mobile phone and it worked immediately. Noisy bird came back and hanged above our car, we couldn’t see it just angry call instigated of intruders and then the bird landed on a pole just in front of us. A stunning Barn Owl!!!! My dream bird for the last years, how beautiful it was with somehow human like face. It sat quietly, whirl it’s head and let us admire such a fantastic moment. Laimis tried to take a pictures but manual focus refused to work so the attempt was unsuccessful. The bird spent some moments with us and disappeared in the depth of the night. We sat possessed by admiration without a word still . We searched little bit for the Scops Owl but nothing was found nor heard, so happy with the dream tick under the belt we went to Beat Shean.
 

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Due to the Succot holydays (or the same would be during any other holydays) as any shops as no cafes or restaurants were working. According to the owner of our apartment the one rear place where we could find something to eat was Arabian restaurant some 15 km from the town near a petrol station. When we finally arrived at some petrol station nearby which was a small Arabian restaurant and entered it we saw that the lights were shaded and two boys were finishing tiding work. Then probably the owner of the place met us and after some enquiries all lights were lit up and a central table was prepared for us. The boss, which looked like one of my favourites actors the famous Robert De Niro, offered different meal for us. I had a suspicion that such hospitality would cost some money but decided that my grumbles wouldn’t be accepted by two hungry guys. The food was served quickly and really was delicious. Actually I was full after starters - some salads, with a set of souses and fries, after what followed kebabs wit cold beer at the end. When we finished our meal and blessed non stop “De Niro” brought a bill. The price for our special dinner was impressive 280 shekels! The owl was celebrated overwhelmingly!
 
Beat She’an area (day 7)

In the morning I repeated the procedure of admiring birds with my tee and added Graceful Prinia to my previous day’s list. That morning I wanted to return to the raptors watching post but the coalition decided that it is too far of our route and decided to check the fields near Jordan border where we were yesterday instead. Golden Jackal was strolling along the hill crest. Probably the same Roller was enjoying the warmth of the morning sun and a nice flock of Indian Silverbills landed on unidentified agricultural equipment. We decided to proceed by walking. The area was overgrown with reeds and various bushes, further extended palms grove. As these reeds and bushes were full of mixture of chirps I went on testing every small bird especially sparrows wishing to find Dead Sea Sparrow. To be honest I was looking for it since my first day in the country and carefully had checked all sparrows. Should have been looking quite strange gazing with such interest at such simple birds like sparrows. So I kept on searching. Great Reed warbler was shouting invisible deep in the reed, Blackbird popped out unexpectedly and some Greenfinches were hopping further in a bush. Spanish Sparrows joined them and House Sparrows hereabouts. I settled the scope and something quite small appeared. Checked it with disbelief and… yes!!! Stunning Dead Sea Sparow, bright male was perching on a thin branch and another one came and more females shoved them nicely too. Had plenty of time to enjoy them all and to show for my companions. Finally I saw them and it took me whole 6 days to find!

Kestrel landed on a palm, not Red-footed Falcon thought, and we kept on our wonders. Getzo climbed up the hill and was driving at the peak of it. Bare and empty field was at our left above which effortlessly glided Short-toed Eagle, no attention at us, just intent look riveted at the ground. Further was a green field, looked like green sea with high grass waving on a wind. And what a fantastic picture was there – all air above the green meadow was filled with Barn Swallows and House Martins.

Our road leaded further to the North, a short stop to have a swim in the Sea of Galilee near Tiberias, where single Little Egret was strolling along the shore, a bunch of House Sparrows were hopping amongst holidaymakers and a solo Cormorant flew above the lake.

Hula Valley

We went to the Hula Valley and particularly to the Hula Nature Reserve. An alley of huge poplars was leading to the reserve. The Hula Valley, massive wetland in the past, which was important resting place for the millions migrating birds. However, in the middle of 20th century the area was drained and converted into the cultivated fields. And only in early 70s the works of restoration started. So we entered the area and walked through a wooden path from the visitors centre. Water Buffalos soaked in the swamp and some Cattle Egrets fitted to them nicely. The water was full of big African Catfishes and plenty of Swamp Turtles were enjoying sunbathing on the rocks. And suddenly on the low fence I noticed a very strange creature. It was a bird, energetically hopping through the fence, caught quite big dragonfly, swallowed it and disappeared. The bird which made me completely lost, as neither my companions nor I could identify it. At first I had an impression that it was something like miniature heron. Checked the bible (Collins), but didn’t help at all, there were no such bird, then Guide of Birds of Middle East – nope. Only later we found out that it was tailless Glamorous Reed Warbler. Is it fair!? I saw bird first time in my life and it appeared in front of me without a tail!

Little Crake was strolling in the reeds and some Moorhens were floating around. But actually there were quite empty with birds as the wintering season hadn’t started yet. The only reward for us was a flock of no less than 150 White Pelicans which emerged unexpectedly in the sky but after some minutes landed far away from us.

Next our stop was at the Banias Nature Reserve. However it was crowded with people, so we just walked a bit with the masses along the impressive Hermon Stream and departed from there to the Nimrod’s Fortress.

Laimis and Gintaras went in to the remains of the castle and I stayed to look around. Blackcaps and Sardinian Warblers were hopping in the bushes and the familiar sound betrayed a flock of Alpine Swifts spearing the sky. A big lizard crossed my track and again I was without a camera. A group of Hyraxes swooped in a bush and all hided. After a moment, probably the leader of a group as it was the biggest one with worn out fur, peeked at me, scrambled an a rock ant carefully watched me. Several minutes later other Hyraxes appeared and started to eat leaves leisurely.

The night we spent in the Field School at Senir, somewhere near Kiryat Shmona. The prise was higher due to the holidays (435 shekels), but the facilities were very ok. At night, actually at predawn, happened a strange thing. The wild scream awoke me and I run out of the room. Didn’t see anything just wild semi laugh – shriek was echoing around. I have no idea what was that, maybe hyena… but I’ve never heard its call and I don’t know where to find it. Anybody has any ideas what could it be?
 

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