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Nikon P5100 (3 Viewers)

Good illustration and point well taken, Neil. Also would you care to comment on defocusing more? I tried focusing on the subject's body and then turning the scope focus ever so slightly clockwise, then adjusting the A590IS to Macro and MF.

This is the result I got (subject matter 30-35 feet away). On the computer screen it looked terrible and I wanted to delete the photo, until I applied Photoshop Elements post processing, and was surprised by the results. I don't think the dark corners are the result of vignetting. Rather, the vegetation was very dark with a bright hole in the background. Nothing compared to the many excellent shots I see on this forum and in Flickr though.
 

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Good illustration and point well taken, Neil. Also would you care to comment on defocusing more? I tried focusing on the subject's body and then turning the scope focus ever so slightly clockwise, then adjusting the A590IS to Macro and MF.

This is the result I got (subject matter 30-35 feet away). On the computer screen it looked terrible and I wanted to delete the photo, until I applied Photoshop Elements post processing, and was surprised by the results. I don't think the dark corners are the result of vignetting. Rather, the vegetation was very dark with a bright hole in the background. Nothing compared to the many excellent shots I see on this forum and in Flickr though.

Nice for the distance. I use the MF feature with the A590 and A640 as it's hard to see the screen well enough to judge focus. With dragonflies I normally focus on the perch. You can check the extra focus needed by focusing on a stationary subject with the scope,attaching the camera and seeing how fast the Green focus square locks on . The closer to "spot on" the focus is the faster the Green focus square locks on. If the scope is in focus for the camera the focus should be almost instantaneous.
Neil.
 
Hello there!

This maybe has already been asked more than once buy I can not find it in past posts. I am not able to select continous shooting mode and I do not know why. I read that if you have distorsion control activated the continous shooting mode is not available but I have that one deselected. What other functions do I have to deselect in order to have continuous shooting? Best regards
 
Hello there!

This maybe has already been asked more than once buy I can not find it in past posts. I am not able to select continous shooting mode and I do not know why. I read that if you have distorsion control activated the continous shooting mode is not available but I have that one deselected. What other functions do I have to deselect in order to have continuous shooting? Best regards


With the P6000 it's Raw and the Remote setting. It could be Interval Timer but best to do a RESET ALL functions and reload your favorites.
Neil.
 
Well, I reseted all but before I did that I noted all my settings. It was noise reduction the function that did not allowed me to shoot in continous mode. Noise reduction was set to "activated" mode instead of "auto".

I will try to make some pictures and I will see if i notice difference with the noise.
 
Sorry this should have been in the P6000 thread, I have now copied it to that thread.

I have not been Digiscoping for about 4 months as busy on other things in the summer.
I have checked in here on numerous occasions, and seen those magnificent pictures from Neil with the P6000.

I know the Swarovski scope and new eyepiece, is superior to my Nikon ED82 and 30x or 50x DS eyepieces, so I know I could never match those pictures.

A week ago, I bought the P6000 to give it a try with my ED82.
If you have visited my Digiscoping pages www.digiscoping.lynandmalc.co.uk
You will know I made my own version of the Swarovski DCB adaptor to fit the ED82, which is fully adjustable in all directions.

How did the P6000 get on, well I am pleased to say that with both the 30x and 50x DS eyepieces, there is virtually no vignetting, just a slight movement of the zoom control on the camera eliminates it.

What about the pictures? I am very pleased with the few pictures I have taken over the weekend, I reckon more keepers than the P5100, and they are sharper too, and a nice colouration to them.

From the pictures I have taken using the 30x eyepiece, it seems that the "Sweet Spot" is around 15mm of camera zoom. I have yet to test with the 50X eyepiece in the field, it has worked well in the past with the P5100, so I see no reason it won't with the P6000, We will see.

Middle picture taken from about 15 metres, other two in excess of 25 metres There was some heat haze over the land.

Malc
 

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I must admit that nothing...as of yet has made me feel that I want to change from the P5100. I had a quick go with the P6000 at the Birdfair but not enough to form an opinion. The high cost is stopping me from just saying "I will try it" as I feel any improvement would be minimal hoping instead to hone technique to eke out any quality.

I would like to try out the camera on my scope to test vignetting though.
 
I took a look at your website to find your Digiscoped pictures taken with the P5100, they are very good, and so is your website, you have put a lot of time and effort into it.

Congrats

Malc
 
Malc
Thank you for your kind words. I think if anybody new the time it takes for any of the many sites put together by various members then half the websites would not be up and running, as yes it takes up a lot of time.

I think one of the biggest factors in the websites ongoing is the hope of capturing that image you can finally say...I am there....although you never will (and really never want to).

As I say whilst I am always on the look out I am still not bothered about swapping my P5100. This is the first camera (and setup come to think of it) that I am happy with........

Thanks again.
 
Video Editing

Hi,

I have been using my P5100 to digiscope video clips lately and was wondering what video editing software was available for the this?

Regards
B
 
I use iMovie on my Mac.
Neil.

For changing landscape to portrait, I use quicktime pro, it was the only software I could find to do it apart from the serious stuff ( I also use Mac). I use DivX converter for compressing for web. I'm surprised just how good the results are from the P5100.

Handheld - http://ibc.lynxeds.com/video/palawa...ult-male-feeding-forest-track-attendant-photo

Digifilmed, low light - http://ibc.lynxeds.com/video/siberi...ica/siberian-thrush-adult-male-beidiahe-china
 
Thanks Neil & Rockfowl,

I found some software called Videopad as a free download. This is great for basic editing (clipping, brightness/contrast etc), stitching clips together and compressing for web upload. However It would be useful to have some guidance on how I can take a video grab?

BTW Rockfowl, your video clips are amazing!

Regards
B
 
Have my Nikon ED82 + 30X eyepiece + P5100 seriously tested last week in a wetland and a urban park, I found this combo is greatly "up to the job". What is your comment ?
 

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Have my Nikon ED82 + 30X eyepiece + P5100 seriously tested last week in a wetland and a urban park, I found this combo is greatly "up to the job". What is your comment ?

Hi
Very nice feather detail indeed. It's funny how when it does come together it really does come together. Well done.
 
Great Pictures there Ray, and nice to see some using the Nikon ED82;)

Malc

www.digiscoping.lynandmalc.co.uk

Thanks, even pictures are not the best, now it seems ED82 + P5100 are perfectly matched.
Honestly, those pictures taken by ED82 and other DCs were not so satisfying myself in the past. With P5100 and further fine adjustments on the length of the adaptor to make the camera lens close to the eyepiece as much as possible, I think I got what I longingly hoped for.

Yes, my lost soul came back.
I second a saying from Chinese: Digiscoping is really Easy Come Tough Go.

Also one thing I am doing is to keep the shutter cable as long as the birds staying (actually they won't be long !). One is to get a good pose, one is to let the camera has a chance to repeatedly re-focus and refresh the exposure to cater any slightly changes in motion and sunlight. This really works for me, in a number of looked similar pictures I could seriously pick those with the best focus and stability particularly on the bird's face and eyes. :-O
 

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